tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-28450183423806358242024-03-13T18:53:24.473+01:00Akwarystyczne DIYAkwarystyka i DIY. Blog przedstawiający proces wykonania przeróżnych elementów i urządzeń przydatnych w akwarium.Sir_Yarohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08697591696823447441noreply@blogger.comBlogger9125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2845018342380635824.post-53168093366131694592012-05-13T21:12:00.000+02:002016-05-02T20:50:20.774+02:00Lampa led chłodzona wodą<br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="360" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/vFgWRcNXmO8" width="640"></iframe> <br />
Po ponad roku testowania ledów postanowiłem w koncu zebrac wszystkie elementy razem i zbudowac cos co mozna pokazac ludziom, a moze nawet kiedys odsprzedac. :)<br />
Całość pomysłu jest moja choc inspirowałem sie odrobinę <a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=2845018342380635824" http:="" index.php="" page="shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=77&category_id=17&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=27" www.acanlighting.com="">lampą 600PA-18B</a>.<br />
Układ ledów jaki sobie wymysliłem jest przedstawiony w załaczniku posta i na obrazku poniżej.<br />
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<a href="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/a-led-layout.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/a-led-layout.png" height="91" width="320" /></a><br />
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W pierwszej wersji ogranicze ilość niebieskich o połowe bo sa drogie. Jesli okaże się za mało użyję całej artylerii... :)<br />
Wszystko zaczelo sie od kupienia obudowy do lampy, rozłożenia jej na kawałki i wymontowania całego elektronicznego smietnika od swietlówek jaki był w środku.<br />
<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=2845018342380635824" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a><a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=2845018342380635824" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a><a href="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/DSCF2130.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a><a href="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/DSCF2088.JPG.html"><img alt="DSCF2088.JPG" src="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/DSCF2088.JPG" height="320" width="180" /></a><a href="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/DSCF2089.JPG.html"><img alt="DSCF2089.JPG" src="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/DSCF2089.JPG" height="180" width="320" /></a><a href="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/DSCF2090.JPG.html"><img alt="DSCF2090.JPG" src="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/DSCF2090.JPG" height="320" width="180" /></a><a href="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/DSCF2091.JPG.html"><img alt="DSCF2091.JPG" src="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/85993-2/DSCF2091.JPG" height="320" width="320" /></a><br />
Ledy jak wiadomo grzeją się diabelnie, trzeba je wiec do czegos zamontowac. Na allegro udało mi sie wyhaczyć w zjadliwej cenie metrowy radiator - kupiłem takie dwa. Dodatkowo kupiłem metrowy profil aluminiowy 6cm x 4cm o grubosci scianki 2mm (nie ma go na poniższych zdjeciach).<br />
<a href="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/DSCF2092.JPG.html"><img alt="DSCF2092.JPG" src="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/DSCF2092.JPG" height="320" width="180" /></a><a href="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/DSCF2094.JPG.html"><img alt="DSCF2094.JPG" src="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/DSCF2094.JPG" height="320" width="180" /></a><br />
Dla uzyskania odpowiednio duzej powierzchni profil z radiatorami został sklejony w jedną całość.<br />
<a href="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/DSCF2119.JPG.html"><img alt="DSCF2119.JPG" src="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/DSCF2119.JPG" height="320" width="180" /></a><a href="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/DSCF2120.JPG.html"><img alt="DSCF2120.JPG" src="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/DSCF2120.JPG" height="320" width="180" /></a><br />
Następnie używając kawałka innego profilu wyciąłem z niego cztery paski.<br />
<a href="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/DSCF2121.JPG.html"><img alt="DSCF2121.JPG" src="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/DSCF2121.JPG" height="180" width="320" /></a><a href="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/DSCF2122.JPG.html"><img alt="DSCF2122.JPG" src="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led//DSCF2122.JPG" height="180" width="320" /></a><a href="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/DSCF2123.JPG.html"><img alt="DSCF2123.JPG" src="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/DSCF2123.JPG" height="320" width="180" /></a><br />
Paski robia za dodatkowe wzmocnienie łaczenia profilu i radiatorów oraz dodatkowy transfer ciepła pomiędzy sklejonymi elementami. paski zostały pomierzone, opisane i powyginane.<br />
<a href="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/DSCF2125.JPG.html"><img alt="DSCF2125.JPG" src="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/DSCF2125.JPG" height="180" width="320" /></a><a href="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/DSCF2126.JPG.html"><img alt="DSCF2126.JPG" src="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/DSCF2126.JPG" height="320" width="180" /></a><a href="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/DSCF2127.JPG.html"><img alt="DSCF2127.JPG" src="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/DSCF2127.JPG" height="180" width="320" /></a><a href="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/DSCF2129.JPG.html"><img alt="DSCF2129.JPG" src="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/DSCF2129.JPG" height="320" width="180" /></a><br />
Jak sie łatwo domyslic całosc została nastepnie przyklejona do profilo-radiatora.<br />
<a href="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/DSCF2131.JPG.html"><img alt="DSCF2131.JPG" src="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/DSCF2131.JPG" height="180" width="320" /></a><a href="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/DSCF2132.JPG.html"><img alt="DSCF2132.JPG" src="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/DSCF2132.JPG" height="320" width="180" /></a><a href="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/DSCF2133.JPG.html"><img alt="DSCF2133.JPG" src="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/DSCF2133.JPG" height="180" width="320" /></a><a href="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/DSCF2134.JPG.html"><img alt="DSCF2134.JPG" src="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/DSCF2134.JPG" height="180" width="320" /></a><a href="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/DSCF2135.JPG.html"><img alt="DSCF2135.JPG" src="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/DSCF2135.JPG" height="180" width="320" /></a><br />
Pierwsza przymiarka:<br />
<a href="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/DSCF2137.JPG.html"><img alt="DSCF2137.JPG" src="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/DSCF2137.JPG" height="320" width="180" /></a><br />
I teraz kwestia nad która myslałem najdłużej. Wszystkie moje dotychczasowe akwarystyczne wyroby ledowe były chłodzone wodą. Sprawdzało sie to idealnie temperatura ledów nie przekraczała 26.5 stopnia, a po wylaczeniu przepływu wody przez profil dopiero po pół godzinie jego temperatura zaczynała przekraczac ~40C i sie utrzymywała na tym poziomie. Dla porównania temperatura żarówek ledowych aqua medica 3W po 10 minutach wynosi 55C!<br />
Nie ukrywam jednak, ze takie chłodzenie jest nieco kłopotliwe. Dlatego zdecydowalem ze lampa bedzie miała możliwość chłodzenia wodnego oraz tradycyjnego powietrzem. Podniesie to nieco koszt ale nie bede musiał potem juz sie w tym babrac jesli zmienie zdanie :)<br />
Z tego samego kawałka profilu co wczesniej wyciałem 2 blaszki które dokładnym przycieciu dopasowałem do otworów wlotowych w profilu. <br />
<a href="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/DSCF2138.JPG.html"><img alt="DSCF2138.JPG" src="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/DSCF2138.JPG" height="180" width="320" /></a><a href="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/DSCF2139.JPG.html"><img alt="DSCF2139.JPG" src="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/DSCF2139.JPG" height="180" width="320" /></a><br />
Nastepnie wywierciłem w nich dziury które powiekszyłem dremelem do wymaganych wielkosci - tak aby kolanka do wężów ogrodniczych akurat sie w nie miesciły. Całość została sklejona standardowo silikonem. Wiem, że niektóry uwazaja, ze to nie jest porzadne montowanie elementów. Jednak z moich doswiadczen wynika iż takie łączenia sa mocne, elastyczne, szczelne i daja się rozłożyć dość łatwo. Nie moge powiedziec tego samego o najróżniejszych klejach które testowałem. Zawsze cos z nimi było nie tak.<br />
<a href="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/DSCF2141.JPG.html"><img alt="DSCF2141.JPG" src="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/DSCF2141.JPG" height="180" width="320" /></a><a href="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/DSCF2142.JPG.html"><img alt="DSCF2142.JPG" src="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/DSCF2142.JPG" height="180" width="320" /></a><a href="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/DSCF2143.JPG.html"><img alt="DSCF2143.JPG" src="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/DSCF2143.JPG" height="180" width="320" /></a><a href="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/DSCF2144.JPG.html"><img alt="DSCF2144.JPG" src="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/DSCF2144.JPG" height="180" width="320" /></a><a href="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/DSCF2148.JPG.html"><img alt="DSCF2148.JPG" src="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/DSCF2148.JPG" height="180" width="320" /></a><br />
Kolejnym problemem na jaki natrafiłem był sposób przymocowania profilu do obudowy. Normalnie bym bo poprostu przykrecił go srubami. Jesli jednak woda ma przez to płynąć to dziurawienie szczelnego układu to głupota. W końcu wymyśliłem niezbyt odkrywczo ze go też przykleje. Pozostało tylko pytanie co sie stanie jesli sie odklei, spierdzieli się na szkło (osłona) w lampie, rozbije je i cały ten majdan wpadnie do wody do akwarium?? Ten silikon jest mocny ale czy chce ryzykować?<br />
W końcu stwierdziłem, ze wystarczy profil zabezpieczyc na tyle aby spadająć nie poleciał za daleko. Uzyskac to mogłem asekurujac go od dołu kątownikami. Chwile później stwierdziłem, ze nie ma sensu ich asekurować skoro można nimi docisnac cały profil uniemożliwiajac mu odklejenie sie. Aby można było to sensownie docisnąć całość powinna miec jakas elastycznosc - tej cechy niestety ani blacha ani profil aluminiowy nie posiada. Dlatego wyciąłem z gumy 4 prostokątne kawałki które przykleiłem do obudowy - bedą ładnie spreżynować cały profil.<br />
<a href="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/DSCF2145.JPG.html"><img alt="DSCF2145.JPG" src="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/DSCF2145.JPG" height="180" width="320" /></a><a href="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/DSCF2146.JPG.html"><img alt="DSCF2146.JPG" src="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/DSCF2146.JPG" height="180" width="320" /></a><a href="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/DSCF2147.JPG.html"><img alt="DSCF2147.JPG" src="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/DSCF2147.JPG" height="180" width="320" /></a><br />
Kątowniki po dopasowaniu powyginałem i przykreciłem mocując stabilnie profil w pionowej płaszczyźnie.<br />
<a href="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/DSCF2149.JPG.html"><img alt="DSCF2149.JPG" src="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/DSCF2149.JPG" height="180" width="320" /></a><a href="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/DSCF2150.JPG.html"><img alt="DSCF2150.JPG" src="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/DSCF2150.JPG" height="180" width="320" /></a><a href="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/DSCF2151.JPG.html"><img alt="DSCF2151.JPG" src="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/DSCF2151.JPG" height="180" width="320" /></a><a href="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/DSCF2152.JPG.html"><img alt="DSCF2152.JPG" src="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/DSCF2152.JPG" height="180" width="320" /></a><br />
W tej chwili czekam na dostawe diód oraz driverów. Jak widac poniżej układ ledów jest na razie nieco niekompletny:<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=2845018342380635824" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a><a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=2845018342380635824" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a><a href="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/DSCF2130.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a><a href="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/DSCF2154.JPG.html"><img alt="DSCF2154.JPG" src="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/DSCF2154.JPG" height="180" width="320" /></a><br />
czesc dalsza nastąpi :) :)<br />
<b>2012-04-29 </b><br />
Ułożone i oznakowane ledy:<br />
<a href="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/2012-04-29/DSCF2182.JPG.html"><img alt="DSCF2182.JPG" src="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/2012-04-29/DSCF2182.JPG" height="179" width="320" /></a><a href="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/2012-04-30/DSCF2184.JPG.html"><img alt="DSCF2184.JPG" src="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/2012-04-29/DSCF2184.JPG" /></a><br />
<b>2012-04-30</b><br />
Pierwsze połaczenie i test połączeń (czy świecą)<br />
<a href="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/2012-04-30/DSCF2187.JPG.html"><img alt="DSCF2187.JPG" src="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/2012-04-30/DSCF2187.JPG" height="180" width="320" /></a><a href="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/2012-04-30/DSCF2188.JPG.html"><img alt="DSCF2188.JPG" src="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/2012-04-30/DSCF2188.JPG" height="180" width="320" /></a><br />
<b>2012-05-01 </b><br />
Nastepne poszły do lutowania testów granatowe (royal blue)<br />
<a href="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/2012-05-01/DSCF2189.JPG.html"><img alt="DSCF2189.JPG" src="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/2012-05-01/DSCF2189.JPG" height="180" width="320" /></a><a href="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/2012-05-01/DSCF2190.JPG.html"><img alt="DSCF2190.JPG" src="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/2012-05-01/DSCF2190.JPG" height="180" width="320" /></a><br />
niebieskie<br />
<a href="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/2012-05-01/DSCF2191.JPG.html"><img alt="DSCF2191.JPG" src="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/2012-05-01/DSCF2191.JPG" height="180" width="320" /></a><br />
czerwone<br />
<a href="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/2012-05-01/DSCF2192.JPG.html"><img alt="DSCF2192.JPG" src="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/2012-05-01/DSCF2192.JPG" height="180" width="320" /></a><br />
bursztynowe<br />
<a href="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/2012-05-01/DSCF2193.JPG.html"><img alt="DSCF2193.JPG" src="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/2012-05-01/DSCF2193.JPG" height="180" width="320" /></a><br />
zielone<br />
<a href="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/2012-05-01/DSCF2194.JPG.html"><img alt="DSCF2194.JPG" src="hhttp://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/2012-05-01/DSCF2194.JPG" /></a><br />
<b>2012-05-03 </b><br />
A tutaj przeprowadzam mały test drivera do ledów aby rozkminic jak to ustrojstwo działa i jak sie reuluje jasnosc.<br />
<a href="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/2012-05-03/DSCF2201.JPG.html"><img alt="DSCF2201.JPG" src="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/2012-05-03/DSCF2201.JPG" height="180" width="320" /></a><a href="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/2012-05-03/DSCF2202.JPG.html"><img alt="DSCF2202.JPG" src="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/2012-05-03/DSCF2202.JPG" height="180" width="320" /></a><br />
Całą obudowę pomalowałem na czarno farbą w sprayu. Okaząło sie ze 150ml DUZO za mało i nie starczyło nawet na jedną warstwę. Za kilka dni kupię większy pojemnik :)<br />
W miedzy czasie prowadząc boje z driverem zaprojektowałem sobie układ i umiejscowienie gałek do regulacji jasnosci, powierciłem otwory i zamontowałem wstepnie regulację.<br />
<a href="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/2012-05-03/DSCF2203.JPG.html"><img alt="DSCF2203.JPG" src="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/2012-05-03/DSCF2203.JPG" height="180" width="320" /></a><a href="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/2012-05-03/DSCF2204.JPG.html"><img alt="DSCF2204.JPG" src="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/2012-05-03/DSCF2204.JPG" height="180" width="320" /></a><a href="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/2012-05-03/DSCF2205.JPG.html"><img alt="DSCF2205.JPG" src="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/2012-05-03/DSCF2205.JPG" height="180" width="320" /></a><a href="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/2012-05-03/DSCF2206.JPG.html"><img alt="DSCF2206.JPG" src="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/2012-05-03/DSCF2206.JPG" height="180" width="320" /></a><a href="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/2012-05-03/DSCF2207.JPG.html"><img alt="DSCF2207.JPG" src="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/2012-05-03/DSCF2207.JPG" height="180" width="320" /></a><br />
Wejscie na zasilanie (tak wiem, że jest odwrotnie ale tak miało byc)<br />
<a href="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/2012-05-03/DSCF2210.JPG.html"><img alt="DSCF2210.JPG" src="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/2012-05-03/DSCF2210.JPG" height="180" width="320" /></a><a href="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/2012-05-03/DSCF2211.JPG.html"><img alt="DSCF2211.JPG" src="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/2012-05-03/DSCF2211.JPG" height="180" width="320" /></a><br />
i samo podłaczone zasilanie<br />
<a href="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/2012-05-03/DSCF2212.JPG.html"><img alt="DSCF2212.JPG" src="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/2012-05-03/DSCF2212.JPG" height="180" width="320" /></a><a href="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/2012-05-03/DSCF2213.JPG.html"><img alt="DSCF2213.JPG" src="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/2012-05-03/DSCF2213.JPG" height="180" width="320" /></a><br />
<b>2012-05-04 </b><br />
drivery zamontowałem na wspolnej płytce aby je wygodnie zamontowac.<br />
<a href="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/2012-05-04/DSCF2214.JPG.html"><img alt="DSCF2214.JPG" src="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/2012-05-04/DSCF2214.JPG" height="180" width="320" /></a><a href="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/2012-05-04/DSCF2215.JPG.html"><img alt="DSCF2215.JPG" src="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/2012-05-04/DSCF2215.JPG" height="180" width="320" /></a><br />
potencjometry będą podłączone na tasmie aby jak najmniej kabli sie walało.<br />
<a href="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/2012-05-04/DSCF2216.JPG.html"><img alt="DSCF2216.JPG" src="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/2012-05-04/DSCF2216.JPG" height="180" width="320" /></a><br />
a tu przygotowane kabelki zasilania driverów<br />
<a href="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/2012-05-04/DSCF2217.JPG.html"><img alt="DSCF2217.JPG" src="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/2012-05-04/DSCF2217.JPG" height="180" width="320" /></a><a href="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/2012-05-04/DSCF2218.JPG.html"><img alt="DSCF2218.JPG" src="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/2012-05-04/DSCF2218.JPG" height="180" width="320" /></a><br />
podłączam potencjometry. dzieki skrupulatnie wyliczonym odległościom kazdy kabelek ma dokladnie taki sam dystans do potencjometra<br />
<a href="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/2012-05-04/DSCF2219.JPG.html"><img alt="DSCF2219.JPG" src="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/2012-05-04/DSCF2219.JPG" height="180" width="320" /></a><a href="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/2012-05-04/DSCF2220.JPG.html"><img alt="DSCF2220.JPG" src="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/2012-05-04/DSCF2220.JPG" height="180" width="320" /></a><br />
zacząłem tez powoli podłączac i łaczyć kable<br />
<a href="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/2012-05-04/DSCF2221.JPG.html"><img alt="DSCF2221.JPG" src="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/2012-05-04/DSCF2221.JPG" height="180" width="320" /></a><a href="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/2012-05-04/DSCF2222.JPG.html"><img alt="DSCF2222.JPG" src="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/2012-05-04/DSCF2222.JPG" height="180" width="320" /></a><br />
potencjometry wstępnie na swoim miejscu<br />
<a href="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/2012-05-04/DSCF2223.JPG.html"><img alt="DSCF2223.JPG" src="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/2012-05-04/DSCF2223.JPG" height="180" width="320" /></a><br />
opisane i gotowe do montażu drivery, z lewej pojawił sie doatkowy o którym zupełnie wczesniej zapomniałem :(<br />
<a href="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/2012-05-04/DSCF2225.JPG.html"><img alt="DSCF2225.JPG" src="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/2012-05-04/DSCF2225.JPG" height="180" width="320" /></a><br />
<b>2012-05-05 </b><br />
zupelnie niespodziewanie kozmarem okazało sie zrobienie otworów pod wywietrzniki. Bez otwornicy do metalu musiałem nawiercać obudowe w milionie miejsc, potem rozwiercac. Potem wycinac cążkami, a nastepnie szlifowac dremelem i pilnikiem. Zamiast oczekiwanych 15 minut zajęło to z 3h cieżkiej harówy.<br />
<a href="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/2012-05-05/DSCF2226.JPG.html"><img alt="DSCF2226.JPG" src="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/2012-05-05/DSCF2226.JPG" height="180" width="320" /></a><a href="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/2012-05-05/DSCF2227.JPG.html"><img alt="DSCF2227.JPG" src="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/2012-05-05/DSCF2227.JPG" height="180" width="320" /></a><a href="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/2012-05-05/DSCF2228.JPG.html"><img alt="DSCF2228.JPG" src="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/2012-05-05/DSCF2228.JPG" height="180" width="320" /></a><a href="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/2012-05-05/DSCF2229.JPG.html"><img alt="DSCF2229.JPG" src="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/2012-05-05/DSCF2229.JPG" height="180" width="320" /></a><a href="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/2012-05-05/DSCF2230.JPG.html"><img alt="DSCF2230.JPG" src="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/2012-05-05/DSCF2230.JPG" height="180" width="320" /></a><a href="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/2012-05-05/DSCF2231.JPG.html"><img alt="DSCF2231.JPG" src="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/2012-05-05/DSCF2231.JPG" height="180" width="320" /></a><br />
Z sześciu dziur zaplanowanych na te 15 minut pozostały do wykonania jeszcze 2 - na wlot i wylot wody. Jak zwykle wiercenie wielkich dziur w metalu w moim wykonaniu jest dalekie od estetyki. :) Zamaskowałem i usztywniłem całą konstrukcję gumową uszczelką wycięta z jakiegoś wiekszego kawałka.<br />
<a href="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/2012-05-05/DSCF2232.JPG.html"><img alt="DSCF2232.JPG" src="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/2012-05-05/DSCF2232.JPG" height="180" width="320" /></a><a href="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/2012-05-05/DSCF2233.JPG.html"><img alt="DSCF2233.JPG" src="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/2012-05-05/DSCF2233.JPG" height="180" width="320" /></a><a href="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/2012-05-05/DSCF2234.JPG.html"><img alt="DSCF2234.JPG" src="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/2012-05-05/DSCF2234.JPG" height="180" width="320" /></a><a href="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/2012-05-05/DSCF2235.JPG.html"><img alt="DSCF2235.JPG" src="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/2012-05-05/DSCF2235.JPG" height="180" width="320" /></a><a href="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/2012-05-05/DSCF2236.JPG.html"><img alt="DSCF2236.JPG" src="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/2012-05-05/DSCF2236.JPG" height="180" width="320" /></a><a href="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/2012-05-05/DSCF2237.JPG.html"><img alt="DSCF2237.JPG" src="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/2012-05-05/DSCF2237.JPG" height="180" width="320" /></a><a href="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/2012-05-05/DSCF2238.JPG.html"><img alt="DSCF2238.JPG" src="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/2012-05-05/DSCF2238.JPG" height="180" width="320" /></a><br />
Nastepnie zmontowałem boczne nóżki na których lampa miała sie opierac. Aby metal nie stał bezposrednio na szkle zamortyzowałem całość wspomnianą wczesniej gumą.<br />
<a href="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/2012-05-05/DSCF2239.JPG.html"><img alt="DSCF2239.JPG" src="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/2012-05-05/DSCF2239.JPG" height="180" width="320" /></a><a href="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/2012-05-05/DSCF2240.JPG.html"><img alt="DSCF2240.JPG" src="http://galeria.czarniak.org/main.php/d/86278-2/2012-05-05/DSCF2240.JPG" /></a><a href="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/2012-05-05/DSCF2241.JPG.html"><img alt="DSCF2241.JPG" src="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/2012-05-05/DSCF2241.JPG" height="180" width="320" /></a><br />
<b>2012-05-06</b><br />
Gdzieś w miedzy czasie lampa została pomalowana na czarno po raz drugi (tym razem cała), a potem pociągnieta dla utrwalenia lakierem.<br />
<a href="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/2012-05-06/DSCF2243.JPG.html"><img alt="DSCF2243.JPG" src="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/2012-05-06/DSCF2243.JPG" height="180" width="320" /></a><a href="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/2012-05-06/DSCF2244.JPG.html"><img alt="DSCF2244.JPG" src="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/2012-05-06/DSCF2244.JPG" height="180" width="320" /></a><br />
Wykonane wczesniej nóżki okazały sie nie wypałem. Nóżki były na tyle długie (razem 30cm) (a całosci lekko brakuje na sztywnosci), że po zamontowaniu lampy na baniaku lampa sie obniżała o ~1cm i "zwisała" opierajac sie na wzmocnieniu poprzecznym. Przeszukałem mase for (głownie morskich) aby zobaczyc jak ludzie tam montuja swoje kosmicznie drogie lampy. W wiekszosci po prostu je wieszają na linkach. Hi-end'owe modele pacific sun sa montowane na poprzecznych szynach umozliwiajacych przesuwanie lampy w przód i w tył zbiornika. To (i fakt ze pacific zaspiewał za swoje szyny ~500zł) nasunęło mi pewien pomysł... I 20zł później... :) wykonałem prototyp który po poprawieniu walorów estetycznych zostanie ze mną na długo. Gdyz jest zarąbisty !! :) :)<br />
Zwykłe prowadnice do szuflad spełniają dokładnie takie samo zadanie, a kosztuja 20x mniej. Musze sie tylko zastanowic jak je zamaskowac aby nie wygladały tak odpustowo :)<br />
<a href="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/2012-05-06/DSCF2245.JPG.html"><img alt="DSCF2245.JPG" src="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/2012-05-06/DSCF2245.JPG" height="320" width="180" /></a><a href="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/2012-05-06/DSCF2246.JPG.html"><img alt="DSCF2246.JPG" src="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/2012-05-06/DSCF2246.JPG" height="180" width="320" /></a><a href="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/2012-05-06/DSCF2247.JPG.html"><img alt="DSCF2247.JPG" src="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/2012-05-06/DSCF2247.JPG" height="180" width="320" /></a><a href="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/2012-05-06/DSCF2248.JPG.html"><img alt="DSCF2248.JPG" src="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/2012-05-06/DSCF2248.JPG" height="180" width="320" /></a><a href="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/2012-05-06/DSCF2249.JPG.html"><img alt="DSCF2249.JPG" src="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/2012-05-06/DSCF2249.JPG" height="180" width="320" /></a><a href="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/2012-05-06/DSCF2250.JPG.html"><img alt="DSCF2250.JPG" src="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/2012-05-06/DSCF2250.JPG" height="180" width="320" /></a><br />
<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=2845018342380635824" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"></a><a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=2845018342380635824" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"></a><a href="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/DSCF2130.JPG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"></a>na koniec zamontowałem wiatraczki które będa chłodzić lampe zanim puszcze przez nią wodę<br />
<a href="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/2012-05-06/DSCF2252.JPG.html"><img alt="DSCF2252.JPG" src="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/2012-05-06/DSCF2252.JPG" height="180" width="320" /></a><a href="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/2012-05-06/DSCF2253.JPG.html"><img alt="DSCF2253.JPG" src="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/2012-05-06/DSCF2253.JPG" height="180" width="320" /></a><br />
niezbyt wyraźne zdjęcie zmontowanej całosci wraz z przednią szybą:<br />
<a href="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/2012-05-06/DSCF2254.JPG.html"><img alt="DSCF2254.JPG" src="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/2012-05-06/DSCF2254.JPG" height="180" width="320" /></a><br />
a tu chwile poźniej juz na baniaku<br />
<a href="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/2012-05-06/DSCF2255.JPG.html"><img alt="DSCF2255.JPG" src="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/2012-05-06/DSCF2255.JPG" height="180" width="320" /></a><br />
Na obecną chwilę lampa jest prawie gotowa i będę juz jej używać.<br />
Musze jeszcze:<br />
- zasilić diody bursztynowe i granatowe gdyż nie mam odpowiednich zasilaczy.<br />
- Następnie chce dodac bezpieczniki i włącznik.<br />
- Zamontuję także czujnik temperatury gdyż ciezko jest teraz powiedzieć jaka jest temperatura diód (gdy bedzie plynąć woda nie bedzie to zbyt przydatne ale co mi tam :) )<br />
- zmienic wiatraki na cichsze.<br />
- wymontowac wszystkie zasilacze i zastapic je jednym dużym zewnętrznym.<br />
<span silver="">Diody kupione w mariteksie (<a href="http://www.maritex.com.pl/pl/shop/index/ggid/15212">http://www.maritex.com.pl/pl/shop/index/ggid/15212</a>)<br />
</span><br />
<ol style="list-style-type: decimal;">
<li><span silver="">NM-1SW22-XMLWCU21C 33,21 zł 2 x szt <br />
Moduł 1x LED Cree XM-L, jasność U2 - 300.0 lm/700 mA, <span white="">biała zimna</span> - 1C (ok.6100-6500K), biała soldermaska, MCPCB star, miedź 3W/(m*K), 6 wyprowadzeń, RoHS <br />
</span></li>
<li><span silver="">NT-1SB22-XPEBR16D3 15,50 zł 8 x szt <br />
Moduł 1xLED Cree XP-E, jasność 500mW, <span blue="">Royal Blue</span> - D3 (ok.4450-455nm), MCPCB Star, Tc=2W/(m*K) , RoHS <br />
</span></li>
<li><span silver="">NT-1SB22-XPEREDN3R2 11,07 zł 4 x szt <br />
Moduł 1xLED Cree XP-E, jasność N3 - 56.8 lm/350 mA, <span red="">czerwona </span>- R2 (620-625nm), MCPCB Star, Tc=2W/(m*K) , RoHS <br />
</span></li>
<li><span silver="">XPESAMB-L1-0000-00301-A3P2 9,23 zł 2 x szt <br />
Moduł MCPCB 1x LED Cree XP-E, <span darkorange="">bursztynowa</span>- A3 (590-595nm), N2 - 51.7 lm/ 350mA, LED CREE® XPEAMB-L1-0000-00301 (XPEAMB-L1-A30-N2-C-01), MCPCB Star, RoHS <br />
</span></li>
<li><span silver="">XPESGRN-L1-R250-00901-G2Q3 13,41 zł 2 x szt <br />
Moduł MCPCB 1x LED Cree XP-E, <span lime="">zielona </span>- G2 (520-525nm), LED CREE® XPEGRN-L1-R250-00901, ( XPEGRN-L1-G20-Q3-0-01) jasność P4 - 80.6 lm/ 350mA ( jasność ze składu Q3 - 93.9 ), MCPCB Star, RoHS</span></li>
</ol>
<br />
Do tego miałem 6 niebieskich z poprzednich projektów - nie pamietam dokladnie jakich. Ja proponuje NT-1SB22-XPEBLM3B5 Do tego mam 28 białych (w 95% MX-3 model NV-1RW25-MX3CWQ52B) z poprzednich projektów.<br />
6 driverów kupiłem w firmie Dareltek <a href="http://darel.elektroda.eu/index.html">http://darel.elektroda.eu/index.html</a> na allegro. Cena srednio 20zł/szt.<br />
Jakąś pokazówkę jak to świeci, działa itp postaram sie zrobic w weekend :)<br />
<b>2012-05-10 - 2012-05-13</b><br />
Dodałem czujnik temperatury z wyswietlaczem aby wiedziec jaka temperature ma profil: <a href="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/2012-05-10/DSCF2256.JPG.html"><img alt="DSCF2256.JPG" src="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/2012-05-10/DSCF2256.JPG" height="180" width="320" /></a><a href="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/2012-05-10/DSCF2262.JPG.html"><img alt="DSCF2262.JPG" src="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/2012-05-10/DSCF2262.JPG" height="180" width="320" /></a><a href="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/2012-05-10/DSCF2263.JPG.html"><img alt="DSCF2263.JPG" src="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/2012-05-10/DSCF2263.JPG" height="180" width="320" /></a><br />
Okazało sie, ze wiatraczki (tak jak przypuszczałem) sa zupełnie do "D". Jedyne co robia to hałasują i nie pozwalaja sie diodom spalic. 28 diód rozgrzewało profil do 40 stopni, a po właczeniu wszystkich przy 55 stopniach przestałem sprawdzac. Jak na moje wymagania to DUZO za dużo.<br />
Wczoraj siedziałem do 3 w nocy i usunąłem wszystkie małe zasilacze z obudowy, wyprowadziłem na zewnątrz 2 kable aby zasilic wszystkie diody jednym zasilaczem. Uzyłem do tego 100W modelu RS-100-24 firmy Mean Well. Połączenia granatowych diód w jednym miejscu wymagały drobnej zmiany z szeregu na 2 rownoległe szeregi ale to była chwila. W rezultacie lampa zrobiła sie o pare kilo lżejsza :)<br />
Natomiast dzis po godzinnych testach szczelnosci pusciłem przez lampe wode i patrzyłem jak temperatura profili spada na łeb i na szyję. :) W tej chwili sie ustabilizowała na poziomie 2 stopni powyzej temperatury wody czyli około 27-28 stopni. Wstepnie zapewniam dopływ wody malutka pompką która będzie takze odpowietrzać pudełko przelewowe. <a href="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/2012-05-13/DSCF2278.JPG.html"><img alt="DSCF2278.JPG" src="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/2012-05-13/DSCF2278.JPG" height="180" width="320" /></a><a href="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/2012-05-13/DSCF2279.JPG.html"><img alt="DSCF2279.JPG" src="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/2012-05-13/DSCF2279.JPG" height="180" width="320" /></a><br />
<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=2845018342380635824" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"></a><a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=2845018342380635824" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"></a><a href="http://yaro.tril.pl/~yaro/ryby/lampa_led/DSCF2130.JPG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"></a><b>Kosztorys</b>: Oprawa 80 Szybka 25 2 radiatory 90 Profil aluminiowy 40 Klej termop. fujik 49 czujnik temperatury 10 spray+lakier 45 ledy 255 (28 ledow - biale mx3 juz mialem) złączki do wody 10 zasilacz 100 drivery i potencjometry 182 razem około 704 zł Lampa pobiera od 28 do 120W w zalezności od ustawien. Jesli zas chodzi o jasnosc to BIALEGO swiatła jest od 3000lm do 5000lm Inne barwy słabo oddają sie w lumenach bo oka jest częściowo na nie ślepe. Mimo tego patrzenie na lampe dluzej niz pare sekund bez łzawienia oczu nie jest możliwe. czerwone 0-240lm niebieskie 0-850lm bursztyn 0-100lm zielony 0-160lm czyli łacznie jakies 6400lm raczej chłodnego światła o mniej więcej pełnym spektrum. 30 ledów świeci na biało, 24 w różnych kolorach. <iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/iz1LOhcXAB0" width="560"></iframe> <iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/OBOX4rzVxCk" width="560"></iframe>Sir_Yarohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08697591696823447441noreply@blogger.com0Gdańsk, Polska54.3520252 18.646638454.2039607 18.3307814 54.5000897 18.9624954tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2845018342380635824.post-49186987891346654542012-05-29T00:38:00.000+02:002016-05-02T19:54:39.012+02:00Glass overflow box - szklane pudełko przelewoweZ racji iż pudełka przelewowe kosztuja kosmiczne pieniadze za radą makoka zdecydowałem sie wykonac je samodzielnie. <br />
Jako materiał miałem do wyboru szkło lub akryl. Różnica w cenie materiału jest tak duża, ze akryl odpadł niemal od razu.<br />
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Wykonane przeze mnie pudełko w sklepie kosztowało by około 300-350zł (co jest absurdalna kwotą). Natomiast ja wydałem 60zł na szkło i jego przyciecie. BYło by pare złotych taniej gdyby nie to ze sie pomyliłem i kazałem wyciac pare zupełnie nie potrzebnych ścianek.<br />
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Całosc zaczęła sie o znalezionego w sieci projektu.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-XbeNhWQE3GE/VyePjok7bXI/AAAAAAAAviM/wFy-7pFUWC0sfh6Hf617qbOiK9Qb_ptHwCLcB/s1600/overflowbox.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-XbeNhWQE3GE/VyePjok7bXI/AAAAAAAAviM/wFy-7pFUWC0sfh6Hf617qbOiK9Qb_ptHwCLcB/s320/overflowbox.jpeg" /></a></div><br />
Projekt pudełka znalazłem gdzieś na google image. Szerokosc mojej wersji to 20cm - juz przy tej szerokosci wydajność jest potworna. Nie mam jak sprawdzic ale 6000l/h powinno spokojnie przez nie przepłynąć, możliwe że i 2x wiecej. Troche teoretyzuje ale pompa 3000l/h nie wywołuje nawet silnego strumienia w ostatniej komorze pudełka...<br />
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Na projekcie trzeba zwrócic uwage, ze niektóre scianki sa wymienione 2x i ciecie szybek wg tej listy skonczy sie 3-4 nadmiarowymi, niepotrzebnymi szybkami.<br />
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W pierwszej kolejosci skleiłem boczną ściankę, a następnie zacząłem przyklejać kolejne szybki. <br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-XZoXwI0wjVw/UHCOznuS2lI/AAAAAAAAURQ/lclnnuqYqdwmXeoQvbUiotAf2eZvHAHSQCKgB/s1600/DSCF2264.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-XZoXwI0wjVw/UHCOznuS2lI/AAAAAAAAURQ/lclnnuqYqdwmXeoQvbUiotAf2eZvHAHSQCKgB/s200/DSCF2264.JPG" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-XmqeDq2u3-k/UHCO0d67T2I/AAAAAAAAURY/fCg9Snrztl4nhvV6hDGi8QHROfE6fJ6lgCKgB/s1600/DSCF2265.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-XmqeDq2u3-k/UHCO0d67T2I/AAAAAAAAURY/fCg9Snrztl4nhvV6hDGi8QHROfE6fJ6lgCKgB/s200/DSCF2265.JPG" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FhT17FFCyWg/UHCO1GIUcwI/AAAAAAAAURg/_ADt9h8wv9EWYpmYLTXJrIYcTlgN_dsjwCKgB/s1600/DSCF2266.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FhT17FFCyWg/UHCO1GIUcwI/AAAAAAAAURg/_ADt9h8wv9EWYpmYLTXJrIYcTlgN_dsjwCKgB/s200/DSCF2266.JPG" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-tx6I3hB6zsI/UHCO1j8MaLI/AAAAAAAAURk/v9aOiD-870kelVkpFfAhfzwQmD_s8NTHgCKgB/s1600/DSCF2267.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-tx6I3hB6zsI/UHCO1j8MaLI/AAAAAAAAURk/v9aOiD-870kelVkpFfAhfzwQmD_s8NTHgCKgB/s200/DSCF2267.JPG" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-aetjucnws1I/UHCO2YyCjAI/AAAAAAAAURw/fvgA7D7g5mMKD3q3gsmG-fLiP_EtZN1wACKgB/s1600/DSCF2268.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-aetjucnws1I/UHCO2YyCjAI/AAAAAAAAURw/fvgA7D7g5mMKD3q3gsmG-fLiP_EtZN1wACKgB/s200/DSCF2268.JPG" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-EhNpiBWxL80/UHCO3E3kPaI/AAAAAAAAUR4/40v-2zD_0dcTmkxKlQ273OrQy2a3CeYrQCKgB/s1600/DSCF2269.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-EhNpiBWxL80/UHCO3E3kPaI/AAAAAAAAUR4/40v-2zD_0dcTmkxKlQ273OrQy2a3CeYrQCKgB/s200/DSCF2269.JPG" /></a></div><br />
Dla utrzymania odpowiednich odległosci góry tymczasowo posklejałem tasmą.<br />
<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-k1Pk_TEtolA/UHCO33SgGYI/AAAAAAAAUSA/fLX_x9bFtZMImo1lFzjeDFmQAVT-SB_RgCKgB/s1600/DSCF2270.JPG" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-k1Pk_TEtolA/UHCO33SgGYI/AAAAAAAAUSA/fLX_x9bFtZMImo1lFzjeDFmQAVT-SB_RgCKgB/s200/DSCF2270.JPG" /></a><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-OQ-BKFG37yQ/UHCO4kkFWdI/AAAAAAAAUSI/h7DVMmqb-3ERFMfQONS83m13ywooMrTuACKgB/s1600/DSCF2271.JPG" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-OQ-BKFG37yQ/UHCO4kkFWdI/AAAAAAAAUSI/h7DVMmqb-3ERFMfQONS83m13ywooMrTuACKgB/s200/DSCF2271.JPG" /></a><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-PGEYUNFuGR0/UHCO5LN9w_I/AAAAAAAAUSQ/oexCEDHKHw4SDuiFBPT-pFPtEP0VBnsKgCKgB/s1600/DSCF2272.JPG" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-PGEYUNFuGR0/UHCO5LN9w_I/AAAAAAAAUSQ/oexCEDHKHw4SDuiFBPT-pFPtEP0VBnsKgCKgB/s200/DSCF2272.JPG" /></a><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-t1uN6ZhAxUY/UHCO5owycQI/AAAAAAAAUSY/eQtCBE6kiHsDnYDkJY7_DLJ9rok9tx7XQCKgB/s1600/DSCF2273.JPG" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-t1uN6ZhAxUY/UHCO5owycQI/AAAAAAAAUSY/eQtCBE6kiHsDnYDkJY7_DLJ9rok9tx7XQCKgB/s200/DSCF2273.JPG" /></a><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-cxYLL2_L73g/UHCO6ZNBkuI/AAAAAAAAUSg/_B7HZKjAaOcQrhoZX1lQRr2dQbxxBEUCQCKgB/s1600/DSCF2274.JPG" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-cxYLL2_L73g/UHCO6ZNBkuI/AAAAAAAAUSg/_B7HZKjAaOcQrhoZX1lQRr2dQbxxBEUCQCKgB/s200/DSCF2274.JPG" /></a><br />
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A tutaj juz wszystkie elementy (z wyjątkiem dna w którym będzie wiercowy otwór wylotowy) przyklejone do ściany bocznej<br />
<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-OlTo8MvlbfU/UHCO7GERP2I/AAAAAAAAUSo/09vPUaGrC6MOMQgSBuRJ5a5MPxN55IvTACKgB/s1600/DSCF2275.JPG" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-OlTo8MvlbfU/UHCO7GERP2I/AAAAAAAAUSo/09vPUaGrC6MOMQgSBuRJ5a5MPxN55IvTACKgB/s200/DSCF2275.JPG" /></a><br />
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Przyklejam drugi bok.<br />
<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-PC9v3mMRM-U/UHCO7prI7eI/AAAAAAAAUSw/XOgdma9lwuM51G8HzTKWwIWlzNiVNKy1ACKgB/s1600/DSCF2276.JPG" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-PC9v3mMRM-U/UHCO7prI7eI/AAAAAAAAUSw/XOgdma9lwuM51G8HzTKWwIWlzNiVNKy1ACKgB/s200/DSCF2276.JPG" /></a><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-rvmZXsgWPZE/UHCO8UhqS3I/AAAAAAAAUS0/72U9OtlWEoIcD1wbDFGUZvTjkQTsQUVrQCKgB/s1600/DSCF2277.JPG" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-rvmZXsgWPZE/UHCO8UhqS3I/AAAAAAAAUS0/72U9OtlWEoIcD1wbDFGUZvTjkQTsQUVrQCKgB/s200/DSCF2277.JPG" /></a><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wcyvXUMpGgc/UHCO9lNfbPI/AAAAAAAAUS8/43iuRH3GZTECaxFddNF5BzclfQauvloUgCKgB/s1600/DSCF2295.JPG" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wcyvXUMpGgc/UHCO9lNfbPI/AAAAAAAAUS8/43iuRH3GZTECaxFddNF5BzclfQauvloUgCKgB/s200/DSCF2295.JPG" /></a><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4pAUSzpmdwM/UHCO-6_-CCI/AAAAAAAAUTE/KsajA0ZxiB44lzswq3qzRMi3FlcTDJshgCKgB/s1600/DSCF2297.JPG" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4pAUSzpmdwM/UHCO-6_-CCI/AAAAAAAAUTE/KsajA0ZxiB44lzswq3qzRMi3FlcTDJshgCKgB/s200/DSCF2297.JPG" /></a><br />
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Wzmacniam/usztywniam boki przyklejajac do nich kawałki szybek.<br />
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZEd64q9M9PA/UHCPAPkd0PI/AAAAAAAAUTM/BDu0C5ecGFMXFKM477yr71TwaVCH5WUHACKgB/s1600/DSCF2298.JPG" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZEd64q9M9PA/UHCPAPkd0PI/AAAAAAAAUTM/BDu0C5ecGFMXFKM477yr71TwaVCH5WUHACKgB/s200/DSCF2298.JPG" /></a><br />
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Zamontowany wylew wody.<br />
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tfAyML395f8/UHCPBa4gHFI/AAAAAAAAUTU/fBnNk3l1VWshaExMUOONb91BA6EO3yjWACKgB/s1600/DSCF2299.JPG" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tfAyML395f8/UHCPBa4gHFI/AAAAAAAAUTU/fBnNk3l1VWshaExMUOONb91BA6EO3yjWACKgB/s200/DSCF2299.JPG" /></a><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-coqd_dWlqLc/UHCPCa5zJKI/AAAAAAAAUTc/JzxZ4RkK550EOW16lTEXMFus6ldWU1EQACKgB/s1600/DSCF2300.JPG" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-coqd_dWlqLc/UHCPCa5zJKI/AAAAAAAAUTc/JzxZ4RkK550EOW16lTEXMFus6ldWU1EQACKgB/s200/DSCF2300.JPG" /></a><br />
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Odpowietrznik<br />
<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-x6cKcAnEHzM/UHCPDmZh0rI/AAAAAAAAUTk/tYQIxhplAME9awEsH9sGkUU1Pj-_6Up7gCKgB/s1600/DSCF2301.JPG" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-x6cKcAnEHzM/UHCPDmZh0rI/AAAAAAAAUTk/tYQIxhplAME9awEsH9sGkUU1Pj-_6Up7gCKgB/s200/DSCF2301.JPG" /></a><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-edfL9OMM7sA/UHCPE57VxbI/AAAAAAAAUTs/1LK3ShFfNkso4hL8lcZ206p_F6YeAD_zACKgB/s1600/DSCF2302.JPG" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-edfL9OMM7sA/UHCPE57VxbI/AAAAAAAAUTs/1LK3ShFfNkso4hL8lcZ206p_F6YeAD_zACKgB/s200/DSCF2302.JPG" /></a><br />
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I widok całości z różnych ujęć.<br />
<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Fyar1bu2l30/UHCPF7H6PaI/AAAAAAAAUT0/uRrmkjjzRHQpf9xA82iZ0PsTp3jJlCQJQCKgB/s1600/DSCF2303.JPG" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Fyar1bu2l30/UHCPF7H6PaI/AAAAAAAAUT0/uRrmkjjzRHQpf9xA82iZ0PsTp3jJlCQJQCKgB/s200/DSCF2303.JPG" /></a><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ZLKovAxP7hM/UHCPHMicTiI/AAAAAAAAUT8/C9yUO-LIXF0VSMZXlmOf-7NwYghkn_x6wCKgB/s1600/DSCF2304.JPG" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ZLKovAxP7hM/UHCPHMicTiI/AAAAAAAAUT8/C9yUO-LIXF0VSMZXlmOf-7NwYghkn_x6wCKgB/s200/DSCF2304.JPG" /></a><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-21ii0fiiCgo/UHCPIRailTI/AAAAAAAAUUE/YDBgfJSvyuwFTQ_YquvXR7AliwIv64PbACKgB/s1600/DSCF2305.JPG" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-21ii0fiiCgo/UHCPIRailTI/AAAAAAAAUUE/YDBgfJSvyuwFTQ_YquvXR7AliwIv64PbACKgB/s200/DSCF2305.JPG" /></a><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-vxYwVz7ab4Y/UHCPJVXpfYI/AAAAAAAAUUM/Z5BxoUtYt5E-qpIXlTwGXXr7DN_Di-zuQCKgB/s1600/DSCF2306.JPG" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-vxYwVz7ab4Y/UHCPJVXpfYI/AAAAAAAAUUM/Z5BxoUtYt5E-qpIXlTwGXXr7DN_Di-zuQCKgB/s200/DSCF2306.JPG" /></a><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-2_Lkrnl9qqE/UHCPKvOTvnI/AAAAAAAAUUU/kkEY8B-6gJstOScrnUdVcjPP66cCLMrwQCKgB/s1600/DSCF2307.JPG" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-2_Lkrnl9qqE/UHCPKvOTvnI/AAAAAAAAUUU/kkEY8B-6gJstOScrnUdVcjPP66cCLMrwQCKgB/s200/DSCF2307.JPG" /></a><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-1byOnzzjeew/UHCPL6MCAWI/AAAAAAAAUUc/ew751_jpNPkX85i0d3PfaTqLc2P7hpkHgCKgB/s1600/DSCF2308.JPG" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-1byOnzzjeew/UHCPL6MCAWI/AAAAAAAAUUc/ew751_jpNPkX85i0d3PfaTqLc2P7hpkHgCKgB/s200/DSCF2308.JPG" /></a>Sir_Yarohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08697591696823447441noreply@blogger.com0Gdańsk, Polska54.3520252 18.646638454.2039607 18.3307814 54.5000897 18.9624954tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2845018342380635824.post-79265223901879707082013-05-01T14:09:00.000+02:002013-08-29T14:23:24.257+02:00Moduły na tylnią ścianęKolejne kilka modułów. Tym razem zostały zrobione z zupełnie innej formy wyginając ją do porządanego kształtu.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Evd1UPTa_ig/Uf_xsN6_TzI/AAAAAAAAhQI/fuB9u9dnids/s1600/DSCF2685.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Evd1UPTa_ig/Uf_xsN6_TzI/AAAAAAAAhQI/fuB9u9dnids/s320/DSCF2685.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-oCxPibm9mec/Uf_xtTeHDKI/AAAAAAAAhQc/J3AdBw3UUyE/s1600/DSCF2687.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-oCxPibm9mec/Uf_xtTeHDKI/AAAAAAAAhQc/J3AdBw3UUyE/s320/DSCF2687.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-PW3KwYW0gk4/Uf_xt6hWoNI/AAAAAAAAhQg/qLloY43Nzus/s1600/DSCF2688.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-PW3KwYW0gk4/Uf_xt6hWoNI/AAAAAAAAhQg/qLloY43Nzus/s320/DSCF2688.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-JlgudG3BCpI/Uf_xuQW5wAI/AAAAAAAAhQo/FyaK60mYtvo/s1600/DSCF2689.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-JlgudG3BCpI/Uf_xuQW5wAI/AAAAAAAAhQo/FyaK60mYtvo/s320/DSCF2689.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ZBE3FhPBwCM/Uf_xu6tJ24I/AAAAAAAAhQw/6YosPYGgTd0/s1600/DSCF2690.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ZBE3FhPBwCM/Uf_xu6tJ24I/AAAAAAAAhQw/6YosPYGgTd0/s320/DSCF2690.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Aw1EyR3DM5c/Uf_xvTA-13I/AAAAAAAAhQ4/q_3CErwVoWc/s1600/DSCF2691.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Aw1EyR3DM5c/Uf_xvTA-13I/AAAAAAAAhQ4/q_3CErwVoWc/s320/DSCF2691.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-I601_CScd4g/Uf_xwKHLXFI/AAAAAAAAhQ8/VkKympkEvB4/s1600/DSCF2692.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-I601_CScd4g/Uf_xwKHLXFI/AAAAAAAAhQ8/VkKympkEvB4/s320/DSCF2692.jpg" /></a></div>Sir_Yarohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08697591696823447441noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2845018342380635824.post-4467128347911053322013-08-03T14:15:00.000+02:002013-08-08T14:16:35.619+02:00stopnień z jaskinią<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-dMJjc7v4tVY/Uf1DqT4b2GI/AAAAAAAAgA4/Anffw6wkdBo/s1600/DSCF2755.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-dMJjc7v4tVY/Uf1DqT4b2GI/AAAAAAAAgA4/Anffw6wkdBo/s320/DSCF2755.JPG" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ekiNVro5IyM/Uf1DrDVy3AI/AAAAAAAAgBA/JoxR8h0JCSo/s1600/DSCF2756.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ekiNVro5IyM/Uf1DrDVy3AI/AAAAAAAAgBA/JoxR8h0JCSo/s320/DSCF2756.JPG" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-3-raJU9FZjo/Uf1DrgyCkeI/AAAAAAAAgBM/WsdTtEITpAU/s1600/DSCF2757.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-3-raJU9FZjo/Uf1DrgyCkeI/AAAAAAAAgBM/WsdTtEITpAU/s320/DSCF2757.JPG" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-33CN9JgA7yY/Uf1DsRgDKOI/AAAAAAAAgBQ/LncVHwyD8Us/s1600/DSCF2758.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-33CN9JgA7yY/Uf1DsRgDKOI/AAAAAAAAgBQ/LncVHwyD8Us/s320/DSCF2758.JPG" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-tJox-Kt7J48/Uf1DswMIxtI/AAAAAAAAgBU/ccmJkJBkzRQ/s1600/DSCF2759.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-tJox-Kt7J48/Uf1DswMIxtI/AAAAAAAAgBU/ccmJkJBkzRQ/s320/DSCF2759.JPG" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-H3uIf4y9qbQ/UgFQcdl5QrI/AAAAAAAAhbM/95MFdq9HFcM/s1600/DSCF2768.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-H3uIf4y9qbQ/UgFQcdl5QrI/AAAAAAAAhbM/95MFdq9HFcM/s320/DSCF2768.JPG" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-i0o583Mv3Xo/UgFQdDuzHiI/AAAAAAAAhbU/p2JxOzGqHLg/s1600/DSCF2769.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-i0o583Mv3Xo/UgFQdDuzHiI/AAAAAAAAhbU/p2JxOzGqHLg/s320/DSCF2769.JPG" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1WuQ0mPirno/UgFQdvk_rpI/AAAAAAAAhbc/omUhWljkO5o/s1600/DSCF2770.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1WuQ0mPirno/UgFQdvk_rpI/AAAAAAAAhbc/omUhWljkO5o/s320/DSCF2770.JPG" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Fk25HRPx-dI/UgFQeDCzmNI/AAAAAAAAhbk/4DuAXkFD7c4/s1600/DSCF2771.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Fk25HRPx-dI/UgFQeDCzmNI/AAAAAAAAhbk/4DuAXkFD7c4/s320/DSCF2771.JPG" /></a></div>Sir_Yarohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08697591696823447441noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2845018342380635824.post-19832527733263629102013-07-20T14:14:00.000+02:002013-08-08T14:14:52.942+02:00Moduł tylnej skalnej ścianki<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-bZ3anghxMfA/UffvAUI9svI/AAAAAAAAfxA/9UghYba_YZg/s1600/DSCF2711.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-bZ3anghxMfA/UffvAUI9svI/AAAAAAAAfxA/9UghYba_YZg/s320/DSCF2711.JPG" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-XR8wDN4P76w/UffvBAlno3I/AAAAAAAAfxI/Uh0s99Q1Sbw/s1600/DSCF2712.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-XR8wDN4P76w/UffvBAlno3I/AAAAAAAAfxI/Uh0s99Q1Sbw/s320/DSCF2712.JPG" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-PQfJTPTflWc/UffvB5NEkaI/AAAAAAAAfxQ/OON08DwEGbM/s1600/DSCF2713.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-PQfJTPTflWc/UffvB5NEkaI/AAAAAAAAfxQ/OON08DwEGbM/s320/DSCF2713.JPG" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; 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text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-2ZaMCdGAHHo/UfLT684bkNI/AAAAAAAAfyY/iowwp9Q9DC0/s1600/DSCF2738.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-2ZaMCdGAHHo/UfLT684bkNI/AAAAAAAAfyY/iowwp9Q9DC0/s320/DSCF2738.JPG" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-nsQG8uKY1YI/UfLT5h3ziYI/AAAAAAAAfyg/MXXUURWVPCg/s1600/DSCF2741.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-nsQG8uKY1YI/UfLT5h3ziYI/AAAAAAAAfyg/MXXUURWVPCg/s320/DSCF2741.JPG" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-z5E77uzoitE/Ufe4i96IQLI/AAAAAAAAf0A/81FULONLXWo/s1600/20130728_231243.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-z5E77uzoitE/Ufe4i96IQLI/AAAAAAAAf0A/81FULONLXWo/s320/20130728_231243.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dHxNzjGYDbg/Ufe49GaJHfI/AAAAAAAAf0U/6TgjzP3zqIo/s1600/20130729_182917.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dHxNzjGYDbg/Ufe49GaJHfI/AAAAAAAAf0U/6TgjzP3zqIo/s320/20130729_182917.jpg" /></a></div>Sir_Yarohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08697591696823447441noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2845018342380635824.post-64118968027301987032013-03-30T16:16:00.001+01:002013-08-08T14:12:06.446+02:00moduły - skałki DIY cz2 głaz 20-25kgMiłe dusze przytachały mi nowy kamulec do domu :)<br />
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<img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-GlWleTK8xTw/Uf_xgScRGwI/AAAAAAAAhOA/6vYxwUiZ1t0/w438-h777-no/DSCF2618.JPG" /><img src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-_eFRr7e8V5Q/Uf_xhO1Uv_I/AAAAAAAAhOI/W8nRT-xCL1g/w438-h777-no/DSCF2619.JPG" /><br />
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Miałem niestety mało silikonu i nie byłem pewien czy starczy na całość. Razem wyszło około pół kg.<br />
<img height="360" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-ZOEKJUeY4eo/Uf_xhhGaXcI/AAAAAAAAhOQ/mUzldigbsKk/w958-h540-no/DSCF2620.JPG" width="640" /><br />
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Potem dodałem środek tiksotropujący aby silikon sie spływał po kamieniu. W ten sposób uzyskałem konsystencje gęstego gluta. :)<br />
<img height="360" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-iVdFgWYMme8/Uf_xiEfy5HI/AAAAAAAAhOU/DByZOMUd-Bc/w958-h540-no/DSCF2621.JPG" width="640" /><br />
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No i szybko zacząłem maziać cały kamień:<br />
<img height="360" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-kQDZsleer30/Uf_xi3nVgcI/AAAAAAAAhOs/urEWi1EiXwQ/w958-h540-no/DSCF2622.JPG" width="640" /><img height="360" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-K1Y3CyUwDAs/Uf_xjQmrUNI/AAAAAAAAhOg/lRFixZehUpo/w958-h540-no/DSCF2623.JPG" width="640" /><img height="360" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-LibRscCg42c/Uf_xkIfUrmI/AAAAAAAAhOw/NMYmXZRmgzk/w958-h540-no/DSCF2624.JPG" width="640" /><br />
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Rada na przyszłość. Taki duży kamulec trzeba robić w dwoje albo silikon rozrobić na 2 partie. Pod koniec pracy silikon zaczął już sieciować i ciężko było poprawiać niedoróbki. Dodatkowo kładzenie tylko jednej dość cienkiej warstwy to jest jazda po bandzie. :( Forma w wielu miejscach jest bardzo cienka, a czasem zostają dziury których nie było totalnie widać podczas rozprowadzania silikonu. Poprawianie tego po zdjęciu formy z kamienia jest dość trudne. <br />
Trzeba kłaść 2 warstwy przy czym myślę, że pierwsza powinna być rzadka - lekko spływająca, a druga gęstsza - już bardziej usztywniająca.<br />
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Po 4h kamień z silikonem owinąłem metalową siatką. Luzy pościskałem kombinerkami i podobijałem gumowym młotkiem. Siatka dzieki temu ma mniej wiecej formę kamienia i pasuje dość ściśle do silikonowej formy.<br />
<img height="360" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-uYclRL0yhv4/Uf_xkj0MdZI/AAAAAAAAhO4/qkaXtSQ9EHk/w958-h540-no/DSCF2625.jpg" width="640" /><img height="360" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-3lS6Szc54dc/Uf_xldl_HDI/AAAAAAAAhPA/vTbHT_0U4i0/w958-h540-no/DSCF2626.jpg" width="640" /><br />
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Reszta to już raczej formalność. CX5 rozrobiony do rzadkiej, lejącej się konsystencji był wlewany partiami co jakieś 10 minut. Razem, NA OKO poszło z 2-3kg.<br />
<img height="360" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-9uHWSTMElBk/Uf_xmMxWAHI/AAAAAAAAhPI/H2wUD7w6PR8/w958-h540-no/DSCF2627.jpg" width="640" /><img height="360" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-FCyAaUQb05c/Uf_xmmmLMyI/AAAAAAAAhPQ/qlC5B3YlNcs/w958-h540-no/DSCF2628.jpg" width="640" /><img height="360" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-F_LZDE5UEeo/Uf_xnbFv8CI/AAAAAAAAhPY/duFBkoC1odA/w958-h540-no/DSCF2629.jpg" width="640" /><br />
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Następnego dnia wyjąłem nowy odlew z formy.<br />
<img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-tIr-XcedTyI/Uf_xoFOO4SI/AAAAAAAAhPo/hNG9SEyFcyM/w438-h777-no/DSCF2637.jpg" /><img height="360" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-GwiUFv1BFzg/Uf_xoueakdI/AAAAAAAAhPk/bHkr_Bch808/w958-h540-no/DSCF2638.jpg" width="640" /><img src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Z7QDylL1wsM/Uf_xpOxl6iI/AAAAAAAAhPw/qfrr_pLAj8c/w438-h777-no/DSCF2641.jpg" />.<br />
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Teraz ładuję miśka do wanny na długą kąpiel obniżającą pH :)Sir_Yarohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08697591696823447441noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2845018342380635824.post-76894784258985859242013-02-21T10:03:00.000+01:002013-03-30T16:10:17.481+01:00moduły - skałki DIY v1Sztuczne skałki zdecydowałem sie robić z kilku względów:<br /><br />
- bo mogę, :)<br /><br />
- bo są lżejsze,<br /><br />
- bo mogę fajny kamień mieć w kilku kopiach,<br /><br />
- bo ryby mogą mieć kryjówki w skale<br /><br />
- bo mi się nudzi jak czegoś nie robię twórczego :)<br /><br />
- coś bym jeszcze wymyślił.<br />
<br />
paputek wysoko postawił poprzeczkę wiec nie było opcji lepienia jakiegoś potworka z plasteliny :) Niestety ja nie mam w domu żadnej artystki która pomaluje moduł tak aby zatykał dech w piersiach. <br /><br />
W zamian skupiłem się na innych aspektach:<br /><br />
- ma wyglądać realistycznie, <br /><br />
- ma się dać szybko wykonać,<br /><br />
- ma być tani.<br />
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Dobrze, tanio i szybko? :) Zwykle te rzeczy się nie łączą ze sobą w wszystkie trzy. Ale o dziwo mi się udało.<br />
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O to bohater, Stefan:<br /><br />
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5_sfedwPnt0/USXXUltUxWI/AAAAAAAAeFs/FEDjTzHA4jU/s1600/DSCF2391.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5_sfedwPnt0/USXXUltUxWI/AAAAAAAAeFs/FEDjTzHA4jU/s320/DSCF2391.JPG" /></a><br />
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Stefana (lat 100.000, waga 11kg) targałem na własnych plecach 15km więc zależało mi aby nie było to pozbawione sensu... :)<br /><br />
Po dokładnym umyciu Stefan został ustawiony na płycie CD (w celu łatwego obracania) i przez godzinę był malowany trzema warstwami silikonu formierskiego.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8OfbHp6zMLY/USXXWUQ_kJI/AAAAAAAAeF0/r0IKP8h2FdE/s1600/DSCF2396.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8OfbHp6zMLY/USXXWUQ_kJI/AAAAAAAAeF0/r0IKP8h2FdE/s320/DSCF2396.JPG" /></a><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Dx3mrW_Ls78/USXXXpA6aUI/AAAAAAAAeF8/TEXJh0pBosk/s1600/DSCF2397.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Dx3mrW_Ls78/USXXXpA6aUI/AAAAAAAAeF8/TEXJh0pBosk/s320/DSCF2397.JPG" /></a><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RbzZXYFA-ZU/USXXYjQ8XdI/AAAAAAAAeGE/62VS8qvG3-Q/s1600/DSCF2399.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RbzZXYFA-ZU/USXXYjQ8XdI/AAAAAAAAeGE/62VS8qvG3-Q/s320/DSCF2399.JPG" /></a><br />
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Pół godziny później jego nowy kubraczek był gotowy i można było go ściągnąć<br /><br />
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-qQrOfGm6BSM/USXXY883gNI/AAAAAAAAeGI/mU3xuvZTrJQ/s1600/DSCF2401.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-qQrOfGm6BSM/USXXY883gNI/AAAAAAAAeGI/mU3xuvZTrJQ/s320/DSCF2401.JPG" /></a><br />
<br />
<br />
Siedem miesięcy później zmusiłem się do dalszej pracy. Stefan w akwarium tez strasznie narzekał na brak kolegów.<br /><br />
Formę przygotowałem do łatwiejszego zdjęcia<br /><br />
<img alt="IMG_20130221_091323.jpg" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-x6gsKvIaDEw/USXYHuoRuMI/AAAAAAAAeGg/4_3ehe-c_6M/s745/IMG_20130221_091323.jpg" /><br />
<br />
Następnie załadowałem do prowizorycznie zrobionego pudełka (dla usztywnienia)<br /><br />
<img alt="IMG_20130220_200045.jpg" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-sN-bgeY91rA/USXVFWk79lI/AAAAAAAAeEU/Cvrf1G5teJg/s745/IMG_20130220_200045.jpg" /><img alt="IMG_20130220_200051.jpg" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-V0JoMYrLjg8/USXVFbncUBI/AAAAAAAAeEU/6oxCKsOjzcY/s745/IMG_20130220_200051.jpg" /><br />
<br />
Po czym rozrobiłem bardzo rzadkie CX5 i zacząłem malować od wewnątrz.<br /><br />
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-SZhMmQYUXns/USXVFa6BC5I/AAAAAAAAeEU/nM9euWL8a7w/s1600/IMG_20130220_222837.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-SZhMmQYUXns/USXVFa6BC5I/AAAAAAAAeEU/nM9euWL8a7w/s320/IMG_20130220_222837.jpg" /></a><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-c1lcLWBgWKc/USXVFSfl7hI/AAAAAAAAeEU/KuY5evZwR6A/s1600/IMG_20130220_222843.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-c1lcLWBgWKc/USXVFSfl7hI/AAAAAAAAeEU/KuY5evZwR6A/s320/IMG_20130220_222843.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
<br />
W kilku miejscach usztywniłem odlew kawałkami kratki aluminiowej. W przyszłości myślę, że lepiej będzie użyć bardzo drobnej siatki aluminiowej rozłożonej na całej powierzchni wewnętrznej modułu.<br /><br />
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-IizDROuV58E/USXVFdu7EHI/AAAAAAAAeEU/4dB_WUealXI/s1600/IMG_20130220_222848.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-IizDROuV58E/USXVFdu7EHI/AAAAAAAAeEU/4dB_WUealXI/s320/IMG_20130220_222848.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
<br />
Całe odlewanie trwało jakieś 30 minut (mając wprawę można chyba zejść do ~10 minut). Po kolejnych 10 minutach odlew był suchy. W tym miejscu można było się pokusić o zdjęcie formy z bliźniaka Stefana. Wyczytałem jednak, że przez pierwsze 6h odlew nabiera bardzo wytrzymałości. Tak więc dopiero rano dyskretnie zajrzałem pod formę.<br /><br />
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-vXbLefFLBsQ/USXVFVb6oZI/AAAAAAAAeEU/t-6p07OTJ2s/s1600/IMG_20130221_085234.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-vXbLefFLBsQ/USXVFVb6oZI/AAAAAAAAeEU/t-6p07OTJ2s/s320/IMG_20130221_085234.jpg" /></a><br />
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Okazało się, że całość jest daleko bardziej wytrzymała niż myślałem i nie ma opcji aby <span style="text-decoration: underline;">przypadkiem</span> ja rozwalić. Tak więc ściągnąłem formę.<br /><br />
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WKCtRkqumXQ/USXVFYvt7fI/AAAAAAAAeHU/OfKfgwBfgMk/s1600/IMG_20130221_085956.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WKCtRkqumXQ/USXVFYvt7fI/AAAAAAAAeHU/OfKfgwBfgMk/s320/IMG_20130221_085956.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
<br />
Przedstawiam brata Stefana (wiek 1 dzień, waga 1kg):<br /><br />
<img alt="IMG_20130221_090116.jpg" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-qwQL428Nt5Q/USXVFbdw6NI/AAAAAAAAeEU/UCFX4biAX5k/s745/IMG_20130221_090116.jpg" /><br />
<br />
Czas wykonania:<br /><br />
- forma 1,5h (jednorazowo)<br /><br />
- każdy kolejny odlew - do 40minut<br />
<br />
Koszt:<br /><br />
- silikon około 50zł (jednorazowo)<br /><br />
- 1kg Ceresit CX5 - 10złSir_Yarohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08697591696823447441noreply@blogger.com0Gdańsk, Polska54.352025200000007 18.64663840000002954.055961700000005 18.001191400000028 54.64808870000001 19.29208540000003tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2845018342380635824.post-65070704272287823452013-03-14T07:25:00.001+01:002013-03-30T16:10:04.381+01:00The Ultimate DIY Rocks! Guide to making live rock, also ways to make it more porousPost pochodzi z forum <a href="http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=15412070#post15412070">reefcentral.com</a> napisała go panienka o nicku Insane Reefer. Oryginał zdaje się można znaleść w <a href="http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1094586">tym</a> wątku. Umieszczam go tutaj aby nie wyparował w odchłaniach internetu, jak to sie czasem dzieje...<br />
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v9.0 FINAL VERSION: Aug - 14 - 2008 <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Hey All, <br />
<br />
These are my favorite tips and links so new people can find it all <br />
pretty easy. It is a summation of the most commonly asked questions and <br />
things I have picked up through making my batches. Some I’ve gleaned <br />
from this thread, others I’ve learned from past mistakes and <br />
experiments. I've been making DIY man-made rock or aragocrete off and on<br />
for close to 8 years, though I learned about it from the pre-internet <br />
BBS's back in the very early 90's. Lately, I have even made some money <br />
on my rocks.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
THIS WILL BE MY LAST MLR POST <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
This does not contain any information on "Jiffy Rock", the new method I <br />
am working on to produce rock in under a week or 10 days. This only <br />
pertains to traditional rock methods. <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
I thought I’d pass this info on – maybe save someone some frustration or spark a new idea. <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
First, good info can be found at these two places - I think everyone who<br />
wants to make rock should read these in full. One of the articles gets <br />
pretty heavy handed with the science/chemistry aspect, the other babbles<br />
on tangents once in a while, but both are worth the read, IMO. <br />
<br />
ARAGOCRETE RESEARCH BY TRACY GRAY <br />
<br />
Reef Propagation Project <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
List of Appropriate Aggregates <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Sand - Sand makes cement stronger, so is something you want to add to <br />
your cement. You may also find that sand is a great casting medium and <br />
that you can get crazy shapes with damp sand. Any “clean” sand will work<br />
– look for darker grains which could indicate heavy metals and avoid <br />
these sands. Whatever you choose, keep in mind that the smaller the <br />
grain size, the less obvious it is on the rock, but for sand for use in <br />
the cement, you want a larger particle size, if possible. <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Caribbean/aragonite is “best” for adding to the mud, but very hard to find at a reasonable price. <br />
<br />
Play Sand is generally fine to use - most play sands will be made of quartz and so basically inert.<br />
<br />
Limestone Sand/Pulverized Limestone has gotten good results as a DSB, so<br />
should also work and can be found at some Big Box Stores like select <br />
Home Despot's. <br />
<br />
Glass Sand is a new product on the market that is made from recycled <br />
glass - this would also be an excellent choice and might encourage <br />
quicker coralline growth.<br />
<br />
Calcium Carbonate for “Feed Mixing” (AKA Aglime, Chicken Grit, Scratch <br />
Sand), comes in a range of textures and grain size – from sand to gravel<br />
like CC. Most real feed or farm supply stores will carry it in some <br />
form, and for less than $4/ #50, but make sure it is the calcium based <br />
stuff and not granite based – it should have a percentage of calcium <br />
printed on the bag – if not, it might not be the stuff you are looking <br />
for.<br />
<br />
Dolomite Sand – Same as Calcium Carbonate, just another name (and slight<br />
chemical variation) and is just fine to use - you might find it as <br />
"Aglime" at the farm supply store.<br />
<br />
Sand Blasting Sand can also be used (and works really well as casting <br />
sand) and is sugar fine, look for "Unimin" Brand, or any that says it <br />
can be used for filtration – this will be 99% pure Industrial Quartz.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Crushed Coral - AKA "CC". Makes nice, realistic rock with a high over-all calcium content, but it is expensive. <br />
<br />
Crushed Oyster Shell - AKA "OS". Any shell will work, but OS is very cheap at feed stores. <br />
<br />
Perlite – has a pore structure similar to CC, but much, much cheaper – <br />
great for making light weight rock. It is basically inert, puffed glass.<br />
Make sure that the perlite you choose does not have any fertilizers <br />
added to it – most do not, but a couple do. <br />
<br />
Salt - Many thanks to Travis L. Stevens for figuring this out! The salt <br />
of choice is "Solar Salt Crystals", typically found as a Water Softener <br />
Salt. 99% pure salt. Get the coarsest crystals you can find. Solar Cube <br />
can be used, but is sort of chunky - makes nice holes though. Boiling <br />
the "cubes" rounds off the edges and makes nicer holes. Solar Pellets <br />
can also be used, same as Cubes. Look at your grocery stores or <br />
wally-worlds if your local hardware doesn't have what you want. <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Rock Recipes <br />
<br />
Ingredients are measured by volume, not weight! <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Travis’ Original “Salt Rock” Recipe: 4:1 or 3:1 / Salt:Cement <br />
<br />
Improved? “Salt Rock” Recipe: 3:1 or 2:1 / Salt:Cement <br />
<br />
Ol' Skool Recipe: 1 to 1.5 : 2 :1 / Cement:CC&OS(mixed – or use perlite&shell mix):Sand <br />
<br />
Ol' Skool + Recipe: 1: 1 to 1.5 : 1.5 :1 / Salt:Cement:CC&OS(mixed – or use perlite):Sand <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
I prefer the "Ol Skool" recipe, but I use a variation with perlite. <br />
Makes excellent, porous rock. Keep in mind that even though the original<br />
“Salt Rock” recipes do not have sand listed, your rock will be much <br />
stronger if you replace a portion of the salt with some sand. On the <br />
“Original” recipe I’d use 2 sand and 2 salt to 1 cement. <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
It is highly recommended that you do not make “Salt Rock”. Salt is <br />
horrible for cement, and over the last 6 months, I’ve had more and more <br />
complaints coming in about failed, crumbling rock, and guess who gets <br />
the blame? Even the “inventor” of Salt Rock, Travis L. Stevens has <br />
written and said he too, has salt rock breaking up. So my advice, if you<br />
want stable rock, is to not use salt in it, or if you just have to even<br />
knowing it is bad, then use it sparingly.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Basic Procedure <br />
<br />
Mix dry ingredients together first, excepting salt if used - add tiny <br />
amounts of water while vigorously mixing the mud. Mud should be sort of <br />
“dry” and a little bit crumbly, not wet and squishy – there is a fine <br />
line between the two. A wet mix will not have as many natural voids in <br />
it, be less porous, and will also bind to the salt, making salt release <br />
more difficult. <br />
<br />
If you aren't adding salt, skip this next part. <br />
<br />
Once you have reached a slightly wetter mix then you think you need, <br />
lightly toss the salt into the mixture, and then mix it very quickly – <br />
the more salt that leeches off the crystals, the more deleterious the <br />
results can be, meaning more chances for your rock to be messed up. <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Be aware that a "dry mix" may give the illusion for the first week of <br />
being more brittle, but after a week or two, it toughens up and is nice <br />
and hard. <br />
<br />
As you cast your rocks, try to "drool" the mud into place with marble <br />
sized drops. This prevents large solid masses from forming and makes <br />
lots of natural channels within the rock that will allow water to flow <br />
through the rock and seems to allow the rock to kure faster. If you are <br />
making larger pieces, you can scale your "marble" size up some, but <br />
still work at drooling the mud into place.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
After you make your rocks, they need to be kept moist and warm for at <br />
least a week or two to achieve the best hydration possible – though 3-4 <br />
weeks is best. Many do take their rock out immediately and start salt <br />
release or kuring in 3 days or so, and haven’t reported any bad side <br />
effects, so it is up to you. However, new info is starting to show that <br />
to put your cement in water before the 2 or 3 weeks of age is needless, <br />
as kuring doesn’t really get going until the hydration is starting to <br />
come to a halt (there has to be calcium hydroxide for us to leech it, <br />
and C-S-H is something that forms latter in the hydration cycle). It is <br />
also starting to sound like those who put their rock into the kure bin <br />
too quickly end up with prolonged kure time, so that is something to <br />
think about too. So you can save yourself some effort and money (water <br />
cost money) by letting it sit for a while to let the chemical process in<br />
the cement have a chance at finishing doing what they are doing. <br />
Plastic bags, wet newspaper, wet casting materials and the like will <br />
help seal in moisture. If you think the rock might dry too quickly, mist<br />
it with a bottle or hose every so often. <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Molding/Casting Material <br />
<br />
Really, pretty much anything that is dry and crumbly/powdery will work. <br />
I've even used stuffing bread crumbles, but that draws bugs while it <br />
dries. <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Soil <br />
<br />
Salt <br />
<br />
Sand <br />
<br />
Clay <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
A certain portion of the molding/casting material will remain on the <br />
rocks - most of this can usually be removed with a very quick dip in a <br />
dilute acid solution, followed by a good scrubbing with a plastic or <br />
fine wire, bristle brush. <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
If you use a Rubbermaid type tote/bin, you can easily reuse molding <br />
material over and over again. Line cardboard boxes with plastic to <br />
prevent moisture leak and wall collapse. <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
DO NOT Wet Salt, if it is used as a mold material - this means when <br />
working with salt, do not add water to the casting box as you would or <br />
might with say clay or sand. <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Salt gives a nice dimpled effect on the surface of the rock, but can <br />
wick out the moisture from the rock, making it dry out too quickly. You <br />
can recover and reuse any salt left over, but will notice a significant <br />
lessening of the amount of leftover salt after each casting. <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Sand is my casting material of choice. You can really make some nice, <br />
layered rock with sand. Once dampened, it will continue to keep your <br />
rock moist during the hydration phase. You loose very little from the <br />
casting bin, and if you rinse your rock in a tub, you can reclaim most <br />
of what you use. <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Coloring Your Cement<br />
<br />
There is a lot of interest in creating faux coralline to make the rock <br />
more interesting while we wait for real coralline and corals to <br />
dominate. First let me say that over all, I have not had a lot of luck <br />
with using non-cement colorants. I’ve tried a gamut of stuff from RIT <br />
dye and hobby paint to Kool-aid, and none of these work. Oh, for the <br />
first couple of days, they might look great, but as the kure progresses,<br />
and as calcium carbonate forms, the colors fade out and eventually can <br />
barely be distinguished. By the time these rocks are ready for the tank,<br />
the color is mostly gone. There has been success using colorants made <br />
for cement and grout, but again, these still do fade because of what we <br />
are doing to our rock. <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Having said that, I have some other things to say for those still <br />
wanting to try it. Use real cement colorants – I have a couple of <br />
sources listed below. <br />
<br />
Sold in small amounts and in rainbow colors - are very cheap and most should be reef safe as well as mostly color fast: <br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.earthpigments.com/produc...cfm?subCat_ID=3" target="_blank">http://www.earthpigments.com/produc...cfm?subCat_ID=3</a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://stores.ebay.com/BEACHCRAFTER...QQfsubZ16QQtZkm" target="_blank">http://stores.ebay.com/BEACHCRAFTER...QQfsubZ16QQtZkm</a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://stores.ebay.com/Olde-World-C...4QQftidZ2QQtZkm" target="_blank">http://stores.ebay.com/Olde-World-C...4QQftidZ2QQtZkm</a><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
When you are coloring portland cement, make the color several shades <br />
darker than what you are hoping to end up with. You can choose to color <br />
the mud itself when you make the rock (as Walt Smiths' rock company <br />
does), but you will need a lot of colorant to do so, especially in grey <br />
cement. Instead, you can make up a slurry of cement and sand to make a <br />
"paint" of sorts. Use 1 part cement to 2 or 3 parts really fine sand, <br />
made fairly thin and fairly wet and sloppy (like house paint), and use <br />
it to decorate rock with “coralline algae” splotches. I’ve used white <br />
Portland, but I don’t see why white grout or mortar wouldn’t work as <br />
well – you can use grey, but grey needs a lot more colorant to reach a <br />
desired shade. You can use cement colorants to color the cement any <br />
shade you desire. Working with a paintbrush, you can easily replicate <br />
the swirling patterns of coralline. I’ve also used this mix to paint/dry<br />
brush grey Portland rocks to white. <br />
<br />
I’ve been thinking about how the colors fade and think I might have a <br />
solution. Fast set cement. With it not really needing to kure, you could<br />
make your “paint” from the fast set, and the best part is that being <br />
impermeable, it should fade very little (fast sets carbonate very little<br />
from what I’ve read). This would be something you could add to the rock<br />
after it has been kured. Then maybe soak it for a few days after the <br />
“coralline” has cured (2-3 days for fast sets). <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
---------------------------------------------------------------- <br />
<br />
Now, I will list my tips and tricks, in no particular order. <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Tips and tricks <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
1. Wear gloves when making rock. If possible, don’t let the cement get <br />
on your skin, especially the dry powder. If possible, wear a painter’s <br />
mask when measuring and mixing dry cement; this stuff can really burn <br />
the inside of your nose. <br />
<br />
2. Setup your work area in advance; cover surfaces with plastic or old <br />
sheets if needed (like in your kitchen or living room). Fill casting <br />
containers with whatever mold material you are using, or have it <br />
standing by within easy reach. Give yourself walkways if you are making a<br />
lot of rock – nothing sucks as much as trying to create enough work <br />
space after the fact. <br />
<br />
3. Think about the weather for not only the day you cast, but the next <br />
few days as well, if you plan on doing this outside. Rain can make a <br />
mess of things… <br />
<br />
4. Use Portland Type I, II (I/II) or III – these are known to be safe <br />
for use and make rock with proper porosity. Fast Set cements can be <br />
used, and are in fact great for things like panels or delicate <br />
branchwork, but because of their naturally impervious nature, are not <br />
the best choice for filtration rock.<br />
<br />
5. Mix all aggregates excepting salt into the cement before adding <br />
water. Add salt after you have reached the right wet consistency, and <br />
mix it in lightly – the less salt is leeched off the grains of salt, the<br />
stronger your final rocks will be. Water softener salt of the type <br />
“Solar Salt Crystals” works wonderfully (Thank you Travis Stevens!). <br />
<br />
6. 1 part cement to 3-4 parts “other” is an acceptable ratio, whatever <br />
you want to mix together is up to you and you should be ok if you follow<br />
the 1:3-4 part rule - each person usually finds a recipe on their own <br />
that works best for them. <br />
<br />
7. Work in layers for added dimension. If you lay a layer of molding <br />
stuff in your container, make a few divots in this molding layer first, <br />
and add cement to these first to make lumps on the bottom, you can avoid<br />
flat bottomed rocks. Now lay the main part of your rock, adding molding<br />
material as needed. <br />
<br />
8. You can make neat “cliff-face” striations if you take a handful of <br />
salt, and lay it just along the top edge of wet cement, forming a narrow<br />
line of salt along the edge, laying a thin layer of cement over the <br />
salt, and repeating this to form, on the outer edge of your rock, a sort<br />
of cliff that looks to be cut by water action. <br />
<br />
9. Anything cast thinner than an inch is likely to break, unless you are very careful with it. <br />
<br />
10. Find a nice bit of stainless steel or aluminum wire – 2mm or so in <br />
width, and bend a handle for one end (remember you will probably be <br />
wearing gloves, so bend accordingly). As you cast your rock, use this <br />
wire to poke Lots of little tunnels all through the rock – all the way <br />
through if you can; this will make the rocks extra porous, and give bug <br />
life lots of places to hide and propagate in-tank, as well as allowing <br />
more water to move through the rock. Alternatively, you can cast the <br />
piece, and then poke as much of it as you can – though this way tends to<br />
look a bit contrived. I like the first way better. <br />
<br />
11. Once your rock has cured and it has been curing for about a week and<br />
if you made it mixed with stuff like crushed coral or shells, mix up a <br />
weak acid mix and scrub the outside of your rocks with a stiff bristle <br />
brush. Be sure to take proper precautions when working with acid – not <br />
only from burns, but from fumes as well!!! If you only made your rock <br />
with salt and cement, ignore the acid wash, as your rocks might <br />
dissolve, but still give them a vigorous scrubbing - this will loosen <br />
the weakest stuff and get rid of it without shedding it all over your <br />
tank. If you have shells or coral, this can make the surface even more <br />
porous, and clean cement films from shells and the like that might be on<br />
the surface. I use a mixture of 1/2c muriatic acid added to 2c water. <br />
<br />
12. You can make “lock together” pieces by wrapping a bit of PVC in <br />
something like tissue paper or plastic wrap, sticking it in the wet <br />
cement of “part a”, and then laying plastic wrap over and around the <br />
fresh cement/PVC, and then cast “part b”, making sure to get a good fit <br />
around the PVC join. I find this works, but I personally have an easier <br />
time if I cast “part a” with PVC set into it, let it cure, then wrap it <br />
well with whatever, and cast “part b”, and I can cast really large <br />
pieces this way. <br />
<br />
13. Branching rock/Coral skeletons. Pick PVC pipe a bit thinner than <br />
what you want your final piece to be. Cut into appropriate lengths, <br />
cutting one end flat and the other at an angle. Drill plenty of holes in<br />
the PVC to help the cement stick on. Drill extra holes on the very end <br />
that will allow you to tie the pieces onto the “main branch” with zip <br />
ties. You can bend PVC into believable shapes using heat from either a <br />
propane torch or a heat gun, and a couple of pairs of pliers (use <br />
appropriate precautions). After you have your PVC framework, mix a <br />
thicker blend of Cement Paint (less water, more cement) and paint/dip <br />
the skeleton, covering completely. I recommend hanging to dry, and <br />
dipping several times, using a paintbrush to smooth it out and prevent <br />
weird drips. When done coating, tie a grocery bag around the hanging <br />
piece to preserve moisture and allow to cure 48 hours or more. <br />
<br />
14. Think about how corals come to you, as frags and whole colonies, and<br />
think about how hard it can be to attach these in your typical rock <br />
pile. Flatter surfaces and shallow bowls in larger rock shapes can make <br />
latter placement easier. <br />
<br />
15. You can make rock “shells” if you want to avoid the rock pile look <br />
altogether and these are only limited to your imagination and size <br />
constraints. You can stuff the cavity in the back of this hollow <br />
construction with cheap $1.99/lbs rock, or whatever you want. I DO NOT <br />
recommend making these with the cement and salt only recipe! Make a form<br />
of some sort (use your imagination), put it in a box that will fit into<br />
your tank (making a rock too big for the target tank blows), and secure<br />
it to one side, or more (for multi-part casts) with duct tape. Line the<br />
rest of the box with plastic. I made my form from plastic grocery bags <br />
stuffed into a garbage bag, with a little air added, and taped that into<br />
the target box. Slowly build the shell wall (adding details as you <br />
wish), filling the box with salt/molding material, until you have the <br />
form covered with a fairly uniform covering of cement. LEAVE ALONE FOR A<br />
WEEK! Cover with plastic if you can. See my gallery for pictures of the<br />
“”Reef Face” or “Nessy”. <br />
<br />
16. Frag Plugs. If you have extra cement at the end of the day, make <br />
frag plugs by using a mini muffin pan, and filling with ½in. of cement. <br />
Spray the pan with cooking spray for easier release. These can be put in<br />
a mesh bag and cured in the toilet tank. <br />
<br />
17. Hate scraping the back wall of your tank? You can make thin, wall <br />
covering sheets, that can be glued with silicone to the back wall of <br />
your tank. Alternatively you could make shelves along those lines. I <br />
find casting on a sheet of glass covered in plastic works best for this.<br />
Also marking out the actual measurements of the back wall onto the <br />
glass helps to avoid sizing issues. I DO NOT recommend using the salt <br />
and cement only recipes for this application, nor the use of any salt at<br />
all! I also mix this just a little wetter than I normally use. Once you<br />
are setup, just drool the cement onto the covered glass. I tried doing <br />
large sheets, but these mostly were too weak to hold up and heavy. I <br />
find making smaller pieces (12inX12in or so) that abut like a puzzle <br />
work best, and sort of give the illusion of looking at a cracked and <br />
crevassed reef wall. After you cast these, they need to be kept moist <br />
and unmoved for 3 days, 7 days being much better. Believe me. They do. <br />
And you will need to mist them once a day. I just covered mine with a <br />
garbage bag and used a water bottle to mist it. I recommend an acid <br />
wash, as described above, once these have kured for a week. <br />
<br />
18. If you make a rock or rocks you don't like, either use fresh cement <br />
mix to add some new bits, or break the rock up and use it as aggregate <br />
in your next batch - no waste is good. <br />
<br />
19. The moister you can keep the cement while it cures, the harder the <br />
final rock will be - try wrapping it in a bag, or misting it while it <br />
cures. Supposedly, if you can let it sit for two to four weeks before <br />
starting to water kure, it will dramatically speed the kure time. <br />
<br />
20. Dust your molding sand with oat flour for easy removal of surface sand. Thanks Rhody! <br />
<br />
21. Mix molasses with your molding sand to give it more texture. Thanks Rhody! <br />
<br />
22. Replace up to 1/3 of your cement with “Hydrated Lime” – this reduces<br />
the over-all alumina content of the cement (and boosts the calcium <br />
content) and makes it more resistant to potential “Sulphate Attack”.<br />
<br />
<br />
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
Various things I have used and have worked for me for adding details: <br />
<br />
1. Cemented Nylon String. Makes realistic tube worm/duster tubes. Make a<br />
thin paste of just cement, and dip small lengths of the sting in. Wipe <br />
excess off between fingers and lay onto the rock in desired figure. <br />
<br />
2. Veggie Capsules. These can make little tunnels when laid end to end <br />
in the wet cement, and then covered with more cement. Or poke into <br />
outside edges to mimic polyp holes. Do NOT mix into the cement mix. <br />
<br />
3. Nori Sheets. These can be wetted and formed into shapes or rolled into tunnels. <br />
<br />
4. Balloons. Both the round and “animal” ones work. I find that filling <br />
them with water makes them stronger. Doubling them up works well too. <br />
Make sure that you can get the balloon out afterward - i.e. leave the <br />
knot sticking out. <br />
<br />
5. Cardboard Rolls. Can be cut to form bracing, tunnels or for pillar <br />
shapes. Be sure to use it in such a way as will allow you to remove it <br />
after a few days of kuring. Hemostats work great for grabbing a-hold and<br />
pulling it out. <br />
<br />
6. Tissue Paper. The white stuff you find in gift bags. Disintegrates <br />
quickly during kure. You can make little (or big) “salt bags”, that you <br />
can lay into the middle of larger rocks to give more holes for ‘pods and<br />
the like. Can be used to make caves and tunnels. Just use a small bit <br />
of paper, lay some salt in it and twist or tuck the ends – a small bit <br />
of cotton thread could be used to secure the package too. <br />
<br />
7. Pasta. Must be cooked “Al Dente” before use. Do not mix into cement, <br />
it only makes a mess and is a pain to get out of the rock as it gets <br />
really hard and crunchy when the rock dries (ever scraped 3 day old <br />
pasta off a plate?). <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Kured Rock that the pasta is stuck in... <br />
<br />
Use to add spaces in the rock, or tunnels with spaghetti (at your own <br />
risk). Rigatoni adds a nice effect if placed just right. If you use <br />
pasta, you MUST keep the rock moist at all times – if the pasta dries, <br />
it will most likely never come out, ever. <br />
<br />
8. Jelly. No, not like PB&J, but those toys, etc made of the product<br />
known as silicone jelly – often comes in wiggly balls. Also fishing <br />
bait worms made of the jelly/rubber. No need to lube them – they will <br />
release just fine. <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Things that DO NOT work: <br />
<br />
1. Vinegar/acid kuring. Does have its uses, but don’t expect it to kure <br />
your immature rock – it won’t. Acid, as a general rule is BAD FOR <br />
CEMENT, especially porous cement! A weak solution can be used on FULLY <br />
CURED rock to hasten the leeching of the Calcium Hydroxide, but using it<br />
too soon, or using too high of a concentration is detrimental to the <br />
cement. If you must use it, use regular vinegar at ¼ cup per gallon of <br />
kure water, and use it only if your rock is at least a month old or the <br />
equivalent (steam cured, etc.). <br />
<br />
2. Bio-degradable packing peanuts/Cheesy-poofs. I can find no way to really use these that is also safe for the tank. <br />
<br />
3. Fish food pellets. That was really, really nasty. I don’t want to go there. <br />
<br />
4. Uncooked Pasta. As pasta absorbs water, it expands, causing the <br />
cement to fracture and crack – cook it al dente if you really want to <br />
use it. <br />
<br />
5. Alka-Seltzer. Doesn’t work. It dissolves too quickly<br />
<br />
6. Yeast. Doesn't work. pH of either the mud or the kure water kills the cells before they can respirate. <br />
<br />
7. Co2. Adding into H2O will only make soda pop (carbonic acid), and eat<br />
away at your rock, causing fresh, high pH surfaces to be revealed. It <br />
can work, but only under high pressure, or in a dry, contained space <br />
with a saturation of Co2 for the "atmosphere".<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Salt Release <br />
<br />
If you used salt in your rock, it must be removed before kuring can <br />
happen. Salt will release in warm water much easier than it will in cold<br />
water, and really hot water (150°F) works best of all. Do not boil <br />
cement as temperatures of over 150°F can be damaging to the matrix of <br />
the rock; water boils at 212°F – 150°F is around the hottest that home <br />
water heaters go to, so the hottest tap water you have would be perfect.<br />
Also be careful about “shocking” the cement – cement is a crystalline <br />
structure and sudden changes in temperature (such as using cold water to<br />
refill a bin that was heated) can cause micro-fractures that in turn <br />
can lead to rock failure down the road. Allow warm rock to cool before <br />
putting it in cold water. <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Removing the salt will take multiple water changes. It generally takes <br />
two days to two weeks to remove salt, based on factors such as <br />
temperature and movement of the water, wetness of the mud, aggregates <br />
used and density of the cast piece. <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
If you aren’t sure that the salt is gone, you can do a “Taste Test”. <br />
After draining and rinsing the rock (pick your largest/thickest piece), <br />
allow the water to drain out for a few minutes. Pick the rock up and use<br />
your finger to catch a drip of water from the bottom of the rock and <br />
taste it. If there is still salt present, the water drop will be salty. <br />
If the salt is gone, the drop will taste of mineral water and very <br />
slightly sweet. <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Rock Kuring <br />
<br />
Kuring your rock is the next hurdle. It is really, really best to leave <br />
your rock alone for at least a week before starting this step. According<br />
to Quikcrete reps, it takes at least 7-14 days for the rock to stop <br />
curing/hardening (though this process is actually going on for a lot, <br />
lot longer) - even though it looks and feels done. Testing standards say<br />
it takes 28 days to reach full strength and before testing for <br />
commercial applications can commence. By putting your rock in the kure <br />
bin too soon, you are wasting a lot of water, prolonging the hydration <br />
process and making weaker rock. Rocks during this 2-4 week period will <br />
naturally loose pH - from 12-13 at casting time down to 9-11, with NO <br />
WATER USED. I have been finding that by leaving the rock alone for a <br />
month or so, my average kure takes less than 2-3 weeks (and a lot less <br />
water and effort!). <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Kuring is pretty straight forward. Lots of time, and lots of water <br />
changes with adequate water volume, unless you have access to a <br />
reasonably clean, free flowing waterway. This step is dramatically <br />
decreased if you wait until the 4-5 week range of your rocks life. <br />
Powerheads help force water through the rock and help the insides kure <br />
out. Adding heat to the bucket, upwards of 90°F will really speed things<br />
along, and if you can get it to around 150°F, it will happen even <br />
quicker. It is much like mixing sugar into tea. If you put sugar into <br />
iced tea, it can be almost impossible to get it to dissolve, but you can<br />
add the same amount of sugar to a cup of hot tea and it almost <br />
instantly dissolves. Same principle here. The cooler your kure water is,<br />
the longer it will take the rock to kure. <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Some people have asked if there is a difference in what you kure in, SW,<br />
RO, RO Waste, Tap. For the most part, you just want to use plain tap <br />
water or rain water. RO is fine, if you have it, but doesn’t make that <br />
much of a difference. I would like to give a word of caution for those <br />
wanting to use their RO Waste Water. RO Waste Water is full of heavy <br />
metals and other things we don’t want in our tank, so why would you put <br />
something porous in that and then after it has soaked up all the bad <br />
stuff (like an oil spot on the driveway), don’t you think it will slowly<br />
release those things back into the system? You might as well fill your <br />
system with tap water. That being said, many have used RO Waste Water to<br />
kure in and claim no problems with it. But if you have a hard time <br />
kuring your rock and you are using RO Waste Water, check the pH of it <br />
before using it – if it is higher than 9 or 10, then your kure tests <br />
will never read lower then that, so at that point start using tap water.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
When your bucket kured rock quits leeching out scum on the surface of <br />
the water, and stops leaving a white residue on the bottom of the bucket<br />
and on the rocks themselves, you can start checking for pH. Rock has <br />
been known to kure in as little as 2 weeks, but most bucket/bin kured <br />
rock takes 6-8 weeks to reach safe levels – some will take up to 3 <br />
months. Be prepared to wait. <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
When your tests indicate that the rock might be done, you will want to <br />
do a proper pH test on it. To properly test for pH, use saltwater – <br />
saltwater is preferred since this is what the rock will be sitting in <br />
for the rest of its life. Feel free to use old water from a tank change,<br />
just test the pH prior to use. Let the rock sit in this for 3-4 days <br />
without air or powerheads – you want still, stagnant water for this. <br />
After the 3-4 days, give the water a bit of a stirring and check pH with<br />
appropriate test kit. If it is in the acceptable range of 7.0 to 9.0, <br />
it is probably safe to use. If not, continue to kure. <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
You can use any acceptable pH testing method. The test you use should <br />
have a testing range of 5-10 at a minimum. I like using Litmus Paper. It<br />
can read pH from 1-14, and is fairly easy to read. Litmus paper can be <br />
gotten at “Hobby Lobby” for $3.89 per 100 strips. These can also be used<br />
to test your reefs’ pH Litmus can also be found at pharmacies, online, <br />
and at other full service hobby stores, usually in the section that has <br />
things like “Magic Crystals”, and horseshoe/bar magnets – the “Science <br />
Section”. <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Once kuring has finished your rock can be used <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
If added to a newly established tank, you can go ahead and put it all in<br />
at once. If the tank is older, with inhabitants, you may wish to add a <br />
rock or two at a time, to allow the system to “settle” between each <br />
addition. Maintain pH testing for the first two weeks and buffer if <br />
needed. <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Expect an algae bloom. <br />
<br />
A few people, those who either have waterways to kure in, or those with <br />
really butch systems have reported no algae blooms, but I suspect they <br />
are the exception, not the rule. If your tank blooms, don’t panic. Most <br />
tanks bloom within the maturation period anyway. Double check your <br />
system for things like NO2 and NO3, and other algae causing symptoms and<br />
correct anything that isn’t up to snuff. Take all the normal steps to <br />
curtail the growth, but then just ride it out. If the bloom is caused by<br />
the rocks, the algae will soon deplete the readily available nutrients <br />
and starve itself out. If it doesn’t go away within a few months, then <br />
you should check into other reasons for the bloom. <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
If you place your rock in tank with low light for two weeks to a month, <br />
you can avoid most of the bright green covering algae – low lights allow<br />
the rock to settle in without being attacked by algae so badly, or so <br />
it seems, IME… <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Expectations<br />
<br />
And in conclusion, I'd like to address expectations. I have a feeling <br />
that some people are expecting the rocks they make to be as hard as <br />
cement blocks or cement stepping stone, because, after all, they are <br />
made with cement, so it should be, right? Well, in this case, no - they <br />
won't be. <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Let's compare our “mud” to a typical cement poured “slurry”. <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
First, poured commercial slurry's are made with a higher ratio of cement<br />
than we usually use. Next, they add enough water that they can pour the<br />
slurry - much like a milkshake. I've never been able to pour my mud; we<br />
try to make ours as dry as we can and still have it stick together. Now<br />
take a look at the aggregates - they use dense sands and gravel, we <br />
usually use calcium based substances when we can - there is a marked <br />
difference in each of these as far as strength goes. <br />
<br />
And finally, when cement is poured, they try to get it settled down - <br />
they drag tools over it to smooth it and make sure it is even and all <br />
that, and sealing the surface. We go for as much openness as possible, <br />
and we try not to pack the mud if we can help it. <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Looking at it like this might help people come to a better understanding<br />
of what a reasonable expectation of their rock might be. <br />
<br />
Our rock is going to flake and shed. The more porous the rock is, the <br />
more likely it will be to do so. The better the mud is made though, the <br />
less you will see of it. Maybe you have seen a box of real live rock <br />
just after shipping. If you have, you probably noticed the rubble in the<br />
bottom. Most distributors are not in the habit of making up the extra <br />
weight in a box with rubble - that would be bad business. Most of that <br />
rubble simply came from the rock during shipping. Calcium based rock is <br />
not the strongest in the world, and essentially, our rock is calcium <br />
based. <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
But flaking and shedding are not the same as brittle rock. Your rock is <br />
brittle if you can snap large pieces off after a month or two. Small <br />
bits rubbing off is not necessarily indicative of failed rock, those <br />
could just be pieces that didn't get adhered well. <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
My first piece of advice would be to wait. It takes a month for the <br />
curing process to reach near completion and the rock to reach something <br />
close to its final strength. If your rock seems brittle or flaky, beyond<br />
what you should reasonably expect, just leave it alone for a month, in a<br />
moist (not wet), warm environment, like a plastic bag. Some of the <br />
early salt rock I made seemed really brittle, too brittle to use, <br />
certainly, for the first couple of weeks. It was when I later found it <br />
again, in the bottom of a bucket outside, that I realized how nicely it <br />
had hardened up. If after leaving it alone, you can easily snap sizable <br />
portions off (golf ball sized?), then you have a problem. <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
My next piece of advice would be to use a stiff bristled brush, like <br />
what you use to clean your grill, to give your rock a good once over <br />
when it reaches about four weeks old (or after the pH test in Jiffy <br />
Rock). This will remove about 90% of the shedding and flaking, if the <br />
shedding and flaking isn't due to rock failure that is. If you have done<br />
this and a couple of weeks later it is readily shedding again, then I'd<br />
say you might have a problem. <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Remember that even slight variations can make a huge difference. <br />
Humidity and Temperature at casting and during the cure can make drastic<br />
differences. A tablespoon of water can make a difference on smaller <br />
batches - too wet and too dry can be a fine line. Differences in the <br />
cement itself can wildly vary - every plant uses its own recipe to make <br />
the clinker. Differences in local materials used for the recipe can <br />
often vary with availability and cost. My white cement is going to be <br />
different then Neptunes' cement, and his, even from the same plant as <br />
Sunkools' may vary as well, from lot to lot. <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Salt can mess up the strength of your rock, so if you used salt, think <br />
about that. If you added it upfront, with the aggregates, you may have <br />
over-mixed it and too much salt mixed into the batch. Try adding the <br />
salt after the mud is mixed and ready - and just lightly mix it in. <br />
<br />
A ratio of 1:3 to 1:5 is best for us. 1 part cement to 3-5 parts "other", which can include salt. <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
And finally, realize that even the best made rock can still chip and <br />
shed once in a while. Moving it around in your tank, bumping it against <br />
each other (esp larger pieces), will inevitably cause bits to shed or <br />
chip off, unless you went for rounded ball like shapes, which seem to <br />
loose less, but also seem less porous and less attractive too. <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
I hope this helps a few people out there. I know that having something <br />
you worked hard on, that doesn't turn out like you wanted, can be <br />
disappointing. Hopefully this will help people understand what they <br />
should expect, and what they can do to correct it... <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Well, I think that about covers my repertoire. I apologize for the <br />
length of this post, but hopefully some of you will find something of <br />
use…<br />
<br />
<br />
<br /></blockquote>
Sir_Yarohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08697591696823447441noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2845018342380635824.post-28367785502448450852010-11-26T19:20:00.000+01:002010-11-26T19:20:54.110+01:00Kalkulator do budowy akwarium<a href="http://galeria.czarniak.org/main.php/v/Akwarium/DIY/building.swf.html"><img src="http://galeria.czarniak.org/main.php/d/61272-2/building.jpg" alt="Kalkulator do budowy akwarium" /></a>Sir_Yarohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08697591696823447441noreply@blogger.com0